fun line, steep, sustained jamming. nice treat af...
Description
If this were located at the base of the Bastille, there'd be a line to get on it year-round. As it stands, it only sees a handful of ascents each year. Starting with a small roof, head up the handcrack splitting the middle of the wall. It's obvious, enjoyable, and uncrowded.
If you're looking for steep thrills, adhere to the style of the first ascent and leave rope, gear, and your better judgment behind. No one will care, but no one will deny you the experience either.
Classic Jim Erickson 5.9. An old fashioned climb. The "small roof" is actually pretty burly, and dumps you straight into a short section of left-leaning offwidth. You may want to bring something larger than a #3 Friend. Above here the rest is real fun, like the nice pitch at the base of Rincon, but without the crowds. Definitely without the crowds.
That loose hold really creaks and moves. Easy to reach the rap station above Perry M.
By Jason Carter From: Lakewood Jul 26, 2004 rating: 5.9
An excellent climb with superb pro to hone in your crack skills. The loose flake on the right is still loose. Just a side note - the walk off to the south takes about 2 minutes, probably safer/cleaner than strangling the old tree above Perry Meson.
The loose hold still wiggles. Great climb. Well worth it, if ever in the area. A #4 is nice to shove in while wondering if the jug is going to snap off......
This was a unique pitch for Eldo in a great setting but after the initial burly roof it seemed pretty generic. I was expecting something a little better.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Apr 4, 2007
A 5.10 crux in the first 15' with 5.7-5.8 climbing after that.
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