Christa Cline starting the committing hand travers...
Description
The route is in the popular Unsaid area of the West Ridge. Use the directions from The Unsaid, Washington Irving, or Cruising for Burgers to locate this area. Once the area is located, find the climb Washington Irving. To locate Sunshine Wall, look at the top of Washington Irving and follow a ramp down and to the left. The "ramp" is very small and is sloping down outwards, and on the right side, but is coming from the left of the top of the pitch. The ramp is anywhere from a few inches wide at the top to huge at the botom (before disappearing [beneath] a large roof). The smallness of the last bit of ramp makes the climb somewhat awkward. Follow this line down until the ramp becomes much larger, below and left of a massive roof/ bulge. That is the upper portion of Sunshine wall. A few hand-sized [pieces] protect that section, if memory serves me correctly. The crack system leading directly up to this ramp (a little chunky) is the first part of the climb.
Alternatively, to find the climb... scramble up some Class 4 rock to get to the good rock and then look just a few feet to the right of the line Chianti (left of Washington Irving). Start up the chunky crack system near a small pine tree. The crack system peters out a bit after a bulge, then go up a face/slab to the afforementioned roof, where you tend to the right to gain the small part of the sloping "ramp", which is followed up and right to the tree.
The climb is described as 2 pitches, but with some longer slings can easily be done as a single pitch.
By Peter Spindloe Administrator From: North Vancouver, BC Feb 14, 2002
Another way to locate this fun route is as follows:
Go up the corner immediately right of Chianti. When you get onto the big ledge below a big roof, Chianti goes left and Sunshine Wall goes right. The move around the corner protects with small cams or nuts and the ramp to the belay is the highlight of the route.
If Chianti is 3 stars, this is 2 stars. Good rock and position. Decent gear. Strenuous finish. Move right towards the arete before reaching the ramp for a better line but less gear.
West Ridge - Long John to Verschneidung
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