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Cadillac Crag
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Never Cry Wolf 

5.11b

   

FA: R&J Rossiter, Chandler, Rolofson 1988
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.11a/b [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 171 page views

Submitted By: Tony Bubb on Dec 6, 2001


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Description 

Follow the directions as described for V3. Start on the climb V3, and after about 40', the dihedral gets larger on your left side. At that point if you look to the left you will see a line of bolts. Move up and left to these bolts to a 5.11 crux (can be made easier by excessive wandering about on the face) and then though a more sparsely protected 5.9- section to another group of bolts (5.10). Rossiter's old book claims that the route has become more difficult as a few holds "have broken off in the vicinity of the third and fourth bolts" but the route still seems reasonable at its grade, and the clips are not difficult if done from the best stances.


Protection 

Really, this is a bolted line. Most people capable of climbing this route will not require the small gear that could be placed in the crack at the start (V3, 5.8), but if you want it, take some finger-sized pieces.



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By D. Shaw
Sep 10, 2007
rating: 5.11- PG13

This pitch is just barely worth doing, for the nice top section. The bottom, where the crux is supposed to be, is contrived: one must force oneself to stay exactly in the bolt line for it to be 5.11b. If you move left and keep hunting for edges, it is maybe 10+, at most. But the top section of bolts is sustained and quite pleasant (10a or 10b).