Bottlenecks 

FA:  Joseffa Meir, Tony Bubb, 2001 New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9 [details] Length:  1 pitch Views: 149 page views Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 17, 2001 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: The View of the Upper Construction Zone dihedrals,...

Description 

Refer to the directions to "P3 of Working Class Hero" to locate the "Upper Construction Zone" buttress. This is in the general vicinity of rock above Positively Fourth Street.

At the very left hand side of the Upper Construction Zone, a large evergreen stands at the base of a rotten looking wall, just left of a rotten, shrub-choked, left-facing dihedral. This wall is even worse than it looks. The cracks directly behind the tree on the wall which become three parallel cracks (within reach of each other) are called "Three Lane Highway (5.8, S)" To the right, the rock is generally better. The first good rock to the right about 10', is the route, Bottlenecks (5.9, *). It is the first, nice dihedral, which starts very small, but grows larger.

Bottlenecks is a route with a cruxy start and then an additional crux or two as you move upward. The rock is reasonably solid, but need a little lichen removal before it is truly "clean." The pro is reasonable the whole way, although not always in your face. Many horizontals along the way make great "thank god" holds for rest. This route can be lead with a light rack. You will reach the top of the Upper Construction Zone buttress after 60 feet of interesting, but not great climbing.

To descend: From the top of the vertical rock, you scramble up and left (W/NW) to a large pine tree, at which there is a solid fixed rap station. This station is presently 2 independent tied slings around a solid tree and a single leaver biner. It needs a quick link or two added or to replace the single biner present. Rap from this to the base of the Upper Construction Zone, then walk off in reverse of the description as for approach #3.

Protection 

A Standard Eldo Rack can protect the route, although getting started is rather tough and there is a potential to twist an ankle from the opening moves if your belayer is not attentive, you may fall 5' to the ledge despite having gear. This is a subjective hazard, not an objective one, so I have not rated the route "s."