To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
Trevor Nydam moving through the crux of Schizphren...
Description
Schizophrenia is on the lowest [tier] of the W/SW face of Redgarden Wall, and thus it gets morning shade and afternoon sun. The route begins from the trail and ends on the ledge from which The Yellow Spur and Vertigo begin, more or less at the base of Neurosis or Psychosis. Schizophrenia makes a great 5.8 approach pitch to any of the routes starting on the ledge above, if you want to shorten your approach and lengthen your climb.
Go up the Redgarden Wall trail from the Streamside trail until a metal ladder takes you up just beside the large boulder against the wall. The dihedral just above the ladder on the wall, behind the boulder, is Schizophrenia.
To climb Schizophrenia, get between the huge boulder and the wall, just up from the metal ladder and left of an obvious dihedral. Start on the face, traversing right and upward into the dihedral through a slight roof. Go up the dihedral protecting on stoppers and cams or tricams to the obvious ledge. Walk back a short distance to a huge tree to belay.
To get back the the base, you can walk to the climber's left (N/NE) along the ledge until it merges with the trail below Rewritten, but now that you are at the base of such grand climbs, why would you do that?
Protection
The protection is mostly good, with stoppers and cams or tricams. A light rack will do just fine.
Although this climb is almost too short to be called a route, it has some fun moves on it - esp. going over the small roof and a cruxy move or two in the dihedral. I'd recommend doing it if you are waiting around to get on the super popular routes up trail from it (e.g. rewritten, yellow spur ,etc.). Nice little warm up for the day.
Decent climb and fun while it lasts. The start is a bit bouldery for my liking and the interesting part is way too short. In fact, the whole climb is way too short. Definitely a one star.
By Trevor Nydam From: Denver, CO Sep 12, 2005 rating: 5.8
Nice warmup to above pitches. Head over to [Mickey Mouse Nailup] and then to [Alice in Bucketland] for a great day. T Nydam
RSS Feed
