P2. Head up any of the routes on the Lunar Ave. buttress, or walk to the top of it from the left. Climb 80' or so of broken rock to a large pine tree (no fixed anchor) at a broken, red band below a wide roof. Pass the roof at a seam through its shortest overhang and work up the seams for 80', occasionally stepping left, until arriving on another big ledge below a set of several dihedrals (P3, 10b; Fork In the Road, 5.8; and Road Narrows, 5.10. Protection is adequate, but not great. The route is safe, but tricky to protect. A few TCUs and Ballnuts would help.
There is a variation where one line goes upwards through some face moves, or even slightly right to reach a seam or two, and the other option consistently pulls left as protection runs out, to stay in a solid system of cracks and seams.
P3. Above the large headwall (150' above the Dr. Micheal Solar Buttress) is a set of fins and dihedrals, about 50' tall. Following P2 (5.9+) will land you at the base of these. P3, (5.10b) is the radically-overhanging, fist-to-hand crack that pulls into a right-facing dihedral before hitting a second crux at a roof above. Well protected with cams 4" and below. Was protected reasonably with cams 3" and below on the on-sight first-ascent. Good route.
Eds. Note: This was originally submitted as different routes, but in this somewhat obscure area, these are basically Highway 61 and/or perhaps minor variations.
Protection
This route requires some creative protection and a few thin pieces, but can be protected well enough to be safe. The lack of an S rating presumes that the leader carries some small pieces and is skillful at placing them.
I concur, tis indeed a trick to get going. There is so much more to the climb that the entry moves evaporate in the mind with the rush of position and the glory of excellent stone. Eds. This comment was in reference to a submission which is now incorporated a P3 above.
We added a rap station to the top of this buttress now, at a sizable pine tree 30 feet N/NW of the top of this climb. The 60 foot rap will put you back at the base of the buttress, from where you can zig-zag walk and scramble (3rd class) down to the base of Positivly Fourth Street again.
We also did the ascents of the rest of the obvious lines on the buttress, which I will add to the site soon. One was quite worthy.
Eds. This comment was in reference to a submission which is now incorporated a P3 above.
This is pitch three of "Highway 61", FA Dan Hare, Brad Gilbert, Scott Woodruff, 1974. [Ref: "Eldorado: A Climber's Route Guide" 1975, pp109-110, Pat Ament] Eds. This comment was in reference to a submission which is now incorporated a P3 above.
This is pitch two of "Highway 61", FA Dan Hare, Brad Gilbert, Scott Woodruff, 1974. [Ref: "Eldorado: A Climber's Route Guide" 1975, pp109-110, Pat Ament] Eds. This comment was in reference to a previous submission which ultimately is Highway 61 or a minor variation.
West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony Express
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