Front Side Lip Smack 

FA:  John Christie (onsight) & Steve Dieckhoff New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10b [details] Length:  2 pitches Views: 101 page views Submitted By: steve dieckhoff on Nov 8, 2001 Add Photo  Add Comment

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

p 182 new Rossiter Eldo guide

Upper Rincon, between POINT BREAK and RINCON DIRECT FINISH.

P1 - There is a 'rotten band' and ledge that runs across the face. Near the middle is a wide crack. Climb over the bulge to the right of the wide crack. A #5 Camalot is the easiest to place to protect this section but a #4 somewhat higher has merit. Aim (5.10b s) for a slot which would have been the continuation of the wide crack had not the connection fallen away. Once above this next bulge follow the left thin crack on solid rock to a belay in a recess.

P2 - The crack continues over the bulge above, and up a slab. A tricky section (5.9 s) leads to a left-facing wide crack.

__________________________________________

The large cam is a lot closer that it feels when you're in the middle of the ROTTEN BAND and the thin crack on pitch 1 is well-protected and quite elegant.

As far as I know this route has only had one other ascent. Expect some lichen.

Protection 

Small stoppers to large cams (#4 or #5 Camalot)