This is a "direct" (straight-up) start to Guenese which is most-often top-roped off the double-bolt anchors below the roof band, hence the proliferation of chalk on the holds. It climbs the rounded pillar feature down and right of the start of Guenese before tackling a cruxy leftwards traverse that leads into the upper half of the first pitch of Guenese.
Some shaky psychological pro can be placed in a loose flake down and right before starting the traverse, but it's more likely to whack you in the face than hold a fall. Thankfully, the holds are positive and the deck is a mere 30+ feet away.
Protection
You can't get much in besides psychological pro --the smallest TCU you have (Metolius #00) and an RP or two go behind some horribly flexing flakes. Once you reach Guenese you'll need a mid-range cam and some quickdraws for the bolts.
I remember belaying Eric on this, it was real scary. He used Chouinard Cracknups for pro. Good thing he didn't fall.
By Ken Cangi From: Boulder, CO Jul 16, 2005 Gear Alert
The climbing on this pitch is fun, although I DO NOT recommend this route to anyone for whom it is anywhere near his or her top level of ability. I was much stronger than the route when I did it. Falling is not an option. To do so, especially from the crux, will likely prove fatal. I did the route on-sight, with a rack of quickdraws and a few tiny RPs. Within the first twenty feet, it became clear to me that I would be soloing up to the bolt on Guenese. At that point, I shouted down to my belayer, [Boulos], just give me lots of slack and get out of the way, so that we both don't die." Sorry, B, but I never did know how to spell your name. The look on his face actually made me chuckle, although I was acutely aware of the seriousness of my situation. This route is essentially a free solo up the last bolt on Guenese. The crux move is a left-handed gaston on a small positive edge, at approximately thirty feet above the deck. Falls from thirty feet have oftentimes been non-lethal, although falling from this route would land you directly onto a sloping hillside of knife-edged boulders. Survival would be unlikely.
Redgarden - Roof Routes
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