Another "classic" .11- on the north side of the Bastille. Start near the base of Rain on the (surprising) northwest corner of the Bastille. Climb up and left via underclings, past a few fixed pins and one tricky move to the top of the pillar and a two bolt anchor. (.9) The next pitch climbs up the left-facing corner, through a small roof (.9+) and up the thin crack (crux). Reach up to clip a bolt and traverse right to a belay at a bolt on the arete. Pitch three follows the obvious corner above for 40 ft. Move up and right through loose strata to overhung moves along a chalked flake (more pins). Belay on same ledge as for Outer Space. Pitch four options include outer space and traversing right and up the last pitch of West Buttress. Overall, an enjoyable route. Crux pitch may feel a little hard for the grade.
On the crux P2 there are several ways to go from the fixed pins in the thin crack: 1) up the thin crack, 2) a long reach right to a good hold and then a balancy move up to a bolt, or 3) downclimbing a body-length to traverse right then up. This last sounds convoluted but the leader will frequently downclimb to get a rest after clipping the pins (or just placing a bombproof small cam) anyway, and this traverse is better if you don't have a long wingspan.
In any case, I launched up on this once when I wasn't climbing too well, placed the small cam (before the pins were placed by Chris Archer), traversed out to the 'mantle hold' and lobbed off. It's a surprisingly comfortable fall. ...so much so that I went up and lobbed off again. I hope this little story serves to encourage people to go up on this classic pitch with less trepidation.
Fun Climb. On the crux pitch, the traverse after the crux moves feels a little dicey, if you fall, you'll swing (but on a good bolt). Also, the fixed pin prior to pulling the small roof to the belay bolt is questionable at best, back it up. As with all other gear routes on the planet, small aliens are helpful. The most obvious finish to me was Outer Face, definitely worthwhile.
I climbed this route yesterday and loved it. I did however get pretty sketched out on the 3rd pitch when I pulled on a large flake in the 5.9 section and it moved. The pro at this point is a pin driven behind the same flake. I found it difficult to make the move without yarding straight out on the suspect flake. I also had a hard time clipping the pin just below this one because of the way it sits in the rock, I was standing on some loose strata trying to make this clip. I found the crux 2nd pitch to be very difficult and got spit off a few times but will return to try again since the pro is very good through this section. As Steve said, the fall is clean, I went slightly left after the last pin at the crux..
That's usually done as the third pitch, and yes, be really careful on that shattered band. Have a Petzl biner handy to clip the difficult pin. Not a place to be pushing things, regardless of how one approaches the crux pitch...
Has anyone done this route in 2 pitches with a 60m. Me and my partner came close the other day. I lead the third, fourth and the easy chimney pitch above and right form the outer space ledge and came about 15 feet short form the top (walk-off ledge). My partner belayed right after the .9 undercling roof after the crux, because of drag, but still had about 30 feet or so of rope left. I, of course (on the crux pitch) did the easier variation to the right after the second pin which is a good option for someone following the pitch who wants to keep the climbing easier. I remember staying in the crack the whole way when I did this last year (following) and remember getting really pumped and hanging quite a bit trying to find some decent feet. Excellent route and mostly great 5.9 climbing except the crux 25-30 feet.
Now that I've (FINALLY!) led the crux without a problem, I think this is a great route. Before it was negative-five stars. If you're weak, like me, don't stint on gear for the traverse from the bolt to the belay (assuming you've taken the left variation). You can clip the second bolt at your knees with a long sling. And be sure to back up the pin at the end. The exit is not trivial!
I climbed this route yesterday and it is indeed a great route. On the 3rd pitch, mentioned above, I have some comments. First, the loose flakes are not where the pins are driven. These flakes seemed completely solid to me. Yes, the first pin is difficult to clip and have a small biner for this (Neutrinos work here). The loose flakes below this are a bit freaky but they can be avoided. This section is steep, but short and didn't seem too serious (if the pins hold and they seemed good to me).
The start of the crux pitch is a bit disgusting right now with pigeon shit. Thankfully this only lasts for about ten feet, but it sucks having to fist jam this crack with that shit in there.
I followed the crux pitch and fell off it. What worked best for me was to do the long reach left from the best hold in the crack. This hold is rather low. Then the key is to reach as far as possible on the hold out to the right. Not only is it a better hold the further you reach, but it gives you room to match your right hand on it. This match is by far the crux move on the route, but it is followed with a dicy move to get your foot on this hold and a fall from here would be exciting, though supposedly safe.
Instead of trending right on the last pitch into the 5.7 finish, do the Outer Face pitch (see separate route listing). This pitch keeps the grade more consistent with the rest of the route and allows you to really follow the prow from base to summit. Good fun.
The Bastille - N Face
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