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Redgarden - Tower One
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Rocky Raccoon 

5.9

   

FA: Teena Wells and Ron Akin, 1981
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Views: 210 page views

Submitted By: George Bell on Oct 25, 2001


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Dan Hare starting up the tree.


Description 

This is an odd route where the first 40' are a tree! Climbing this route is hard on the tree, and I hope it remains obscure. The route would be much harder without the tree, as it spans a sizable overhang.

It begins only 30' right of the start of the Yellow Spur. Climb a large tree to the lip of an overhang (slings around branches if you want pro). The top of this tree has been beaten down by the traffic and the move getting onto the rock has been getting harder (I'm 6'0", and I'd rate it 5.9 or even harder if you are much shorter). Fortunately, you can place some decent pro in the rock before stepping off the tree (hands just above the overhang). Do not attempt this climb if it is windy.

After the difficult moves over the overhang, head up and left to belay at a tree. The second pitch (nice) follows the same crack system for 50' to a ledge, then continue up parallel cracks (5.9) to a belay. The third pitch climbs a rotten and somewhat unprotected face over a bulge (you can get in more than the #0 RP mentioned by Rossiter), then traverse right to the Upper Ramp.

If you still haven't gotten your fill of tree hugging, head on up EL100.


Protection 

Standard Eldo rack



Add Photo Photos of Rocky Raccoon
Dan Hare nearing the top of the tree.

Dan Hare nearing the top of the tree.

Lotus Steele and Dan Hare on the second pitch.

Lotus Steele and Dan Hare on the second pitch.