On the South Side of the Whale's Tail a slipery ramp rises from the right to left on a dark band of rock [from the] streamside trail. This Route is Spoof. Climb the first 30 or so feet past fixed pins with a few possible tricam or SLCD placements. This section is the 5.8+ crux of Spoof. After a few more moves a pocketed and chunky crack/dihedral/roof appears overhead. Climb up and slightly to the right on pockets, pinches, underclings and jams.
Normally, I'd say to continue to a good belay stance, but there isn't one- so just continue until...[there] are some bolted anchors for nearby routes if you want to do some simple rigging, ro you can continue up to the top and scramble off.
I found the climbing to be reasonably fun and perhaps not as bad as described on-line for the route "Spoof," but this is certainly no destination. It's a route to be enjoyed by those who are completists in eldo and don't mind a bit of obscure climbing.
At least it's not a long walk.
Protection
There are a few fixed pins low on the route Spoof, where Spoof Roof Starts. These are not great, and the climbing nearby is easy, but I advise clipping them. Not much else is available and the rock is slick. Use longer slings to avoid drag and place gear whenever possible. As you turn the roof the "[chunkiness]" of the rock makes it somewhat difficult to trust the gear. The gear in and of itself is not bad, but the general slipperiness of the rock makes a fall from anywhere possible, whereas gear is not necessarily so readily available.
The Whale's Tail
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