Josh Janes approaches the steep section on 'Night ...
Description
This is a superlative pitch just left of the much safer Back in Black on the Blackwalk Wall around the east side of Redgarden. Jeff Achey's ground-up lead on the first ascent took a whopping four hours -- a fine display of mental control and patience that surely ranks as one of the great leads in Eldo history.
Climb the chossy ramp as for Back in Black, moving up and left an additional 8-10 feet from where you would clip the first bolt on Back in Black. Place imaginary pro and make a very commiting move right onto the bulging brown face. Climb past underclings, sidepulls and funky holes to a stance at a left-trending crack. Load this crack up with gear and move up and right into the crux bulge, aiming for the left-diagonalling pocket band in the smooth black headwall. Follow this to the anchors.
Protection
You won't need much. Small wires and a #1 Camalot get you up the ramp, then small TCU's and double 1-1/2" cams take you through the crux. A final #1 Camalot in a hole gets you to the route's lone bolt, just before the double-bolt anchors.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jun 5, 2004 rating: 5.11c
Crux-O-Rama. Even on TR this got my attention. The lower 1/2 is not to hard and you could get a few pieces in and probably be OK if climbing 5.11 anyway. The crux comes pulling into Matt's 1.5" left leaning crack. I'd take 3 cams, 1.5"-2" and load them up with 2' slings to get a rope over the edge if I were to actually lead this. The crux comes up next... Exiting the crux is balancy, hard, and pumpy- then you get the #1 Camalot (or a 2-2.5" cam) a few meters before the bolt. It was hard to get to the bolt, but then the difficulty dropped off a little to reach the top (5.10?).
You need a 70m or two ropes to TR the route off of the anchors- the 70m hangs inches above the ground with long slings on the anchors.
Redgarden - S Buttress
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