Sequential climbs the thin crack right of center i...
Description
Locate the start of Kloof and boulder up the jugs to the ledge. Jam and layback straight up the groove to the second chalked-up jug rail.... Place bomber pro and launch off on the crux sequence (Hopefully clipping a fixed nut along the way-if you are a super strong, bold, upside down enduro master then it won't matter if the nut's not there). After the nut is the best 3 feet of steep jamming in Eldo.... Weave out left and up to the anchor or finger jam straight up the crack (a little harder). An excellent pitch, possibly the best (sans fixed) pitch of its grade in the canyon!
Protection
Medium to small wired nuts, #1-#2 Friends (double 1+1.5 is nice). If there is a fixed nut (#5 stopper works well) at the crux, its way easier/safer? to lead. Otherwise, a very pumpy placement. Supposedly, this is what the FA used.
One of the best single pitches in Eldo, if not the Boulder area. Excellent moves, consistently overhanging and great looking. It would be even better if you skipped the fixed nut and did the direct finish. With that combination, the route would warrant about 10 stars for quality.
By Rob Kepley From: Westminster,CO Feb 4, 2008 rating: 5.12-
Super fun route that gets steeper the higher you climb. Great gear throughout. This is not your typical Eldo route and is probably a good first 12 for everyone.
I agree with the above posters, this is an awesome route! It's way overhung from beginning to end with only two rests, and even if you can make all the moves it's so sustained that it's really an endurance crux. Although it was my first 12 send in Eldo (after plenty of top roping), I'm not sure I would agree with Rob that it's a "good first 5.12 for everyone".... there's definitely a good chance for hitting the big ledge a third of the way up if you blow the squirly sequence above it, although if you've got that bit sussed after leading Kloof it's pretty safe from there. Also, the direct finish staying in the crack to the very end is recommended and makes it a little harder than bailing left. Beware of sucker holds if going for the onsight... a few of the highly chalked holds are worthless and not necesarily part of the best sequence.
By Rob Kepley From: Westminster,CO Nov 26, 2008 rating: 5.12-
I just think the moves are not too bad for a 12 in Eldo. As far as gear...well it is Eldo. It ain't no weenie roast up there. Safer than a lot of routes though I've been on.
I think Rob is saying the moves are not "technically" hard. I would agree, the crux factors on this climb are power and the strength to endure. The FA was done with one fixed nut to protect the crux moves near the top and having to place this piece would make it quite a bit more difficult since the pump factor is mainly what you are fighting on this one.
I think difficulty perspectives are getting skewed here by some folks. This one is strenuous & powerful and your aren't going to be able to do it if you don't have the strength. I would say this one is pretty unique in its overhanging & strenuous character compared to many other Eldo 12's which tend to be more technical than just brutally strenuous like this one.
By Steven Lucarelli From: Glenwood Springs, CO Feb 1, 2009 rating: 5.12a
I'd agree with Rob, this route is by far the easiest 5.12 that I've done in Eldo and the gear is pretty obvious for most of the pitch. If your looking for a potential 12a trad route to onsight in Eldo this one is probably your best bet.
Sandbaggers! Onsighting this in good style (placing all of your own gear) would be well proud and stout. Even if you used the fixed gear, it would be a very challenging onsight as it's hard to recover from any mistakes at this angle. How many people have actually onsighted this?
By Hank Caylor Administrator From: Left Hand Canyon, CO Feb 1, 2009
I onsighted it last Summer, but clipped all the fixed gear there was. I seem to remember that there was a fixed nut about everywhere you would really want one. 2 maybe, and the rest is bomber gear.
By Rob Kepley From: Westminster,CO Feb 1, 2009 rating: 5.12-
You da man Hank! Right now there are 2 fixed nuts. Only 1 about a year ago when I climbed it.
Steve Lucerelli wrote: "I'd agree with Rob, this route is by far the easiest 5.12 that I've done in Eldo and the gear is pretty obvious for most of the pitch. " Easier than Apple Strudel? I would have said that would be one of the easiest.
By Rob Kepley From: Westminster,CO May 10, 2009 rating: 5.12-
Steven means routes on gear not bolts. Big difference.