The route is just down below the area favorites Tombstone, Die Heeda Rule, and Brother Jug. Locate Tombstone, then head slightly back down the hill (20 feet) to see this clean, diamond-shaped face just around the first arete to the right. Climb up and right, on a line of least resistance, then left to the center of the face and then up and left to a sloping ramp. Pull onto the ramp and make some moves to a vertical face then to the right and up a corner. There was a bolt somewhere on the route, but it didn't help much with the nerves.
The route will go "direct." I next TR'd it by starting up and left from the ground directly to the center of the diamond-shaped face, then straight up through the ramp and directly to the top. This was hard 5.11 and very insecure. I would NOT lead this variation.
Protection
This is S/VS. The route is probably more enjoyable ar a Toprope. Very little pro is available, so you can take it all and just stare at it most of the time- or TR.
This is a pretty fun route. The runout is only 5.9s and is straitforward with good holds. Once the bolt is clipped it is safe face climbing strait up and is about 10b and really fun moves. Going right at the bolt only misses the fun part of the route.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Sep 25, 2002
Just in case you don't know or don't heed the warning: There is no pro from the beginning of the traverse leftward until the only bolt. 5.9s may be quite a sandbag. This traverse felt like the crux without the direct finish and 10 b/c seems a bit conservative.
This climb is on a beautiful striking face. It is much harder than it looks from the ground. The runout section is 10a or so. You can set up a TR approaching from W (or Dubya) to the right or [Bowling Alley] to the left (advised).
This is a really scary climb. We spent most of today failing on it, but it was the place to be. No wind! We ended up toproping it. Tony's description seems overly complicated. Climb the right leaning, left facing corner until it runs out (as does the gear). Be careful your gear doesn't lift out as you climb the bulges in the corner. Continue about 6' higher on positive holds, then straight left to the bolt. If you fall off on the traverse you'll likely hit the left facing corner and/or ledges below. The bolt is useful for the straight up finish, but a bit silly if you're escaping right via the original route, since that's only about 5.7. Red Alien a bit higher. Lots of small wires and small cams before t he crux traverse. We had a funky sideways brass and blue Ballnut, both with Screamers, a bit higher and left of the top of the corner. They both survived a bounce test and held a small fall downclimbing, but it wasn't apparent what they were sticking on. The jug above, at the start of the traverse, creaks--be careful.
Hawk-Eagle Ridge
RSS Feed
