Dan Levison getting the key knee-bar on the Monume...
Description
Feeling burly? Dig slippery cave climbing? This hyper-visible line climbs left to right out of the back of the grotty cave on the south face of the Whale's [Tail], right above the main trail to Redgarden.
Either boulder up (slightly heinous) or stick clip the first bolt and continue right on underclings and strange spikes to the lip of the cave. Going left past another bolt to finish yields a fine 13a, while the standard route goes up and slightly right via the crack/layback.
While not the prettiest route in the Canyon, The Monument is athletic and steep and is perhaps one of the most photographed sport routes in America.
Protection
Six quickdraws and a medium stopper or equivalent piece for over the lip.
By Ken Cangi From: Boulder, CO Jul 17, 2005 rating: 5.12d
The Monument was my first hard redpoint in Eldo Canyon, in the early nineties, and my introduction to sport climbing. One of the old school locals (Jim Ratzlif) showed me how to get an inverted no-hands, knee-bar rest just before turning the lip of the roof. Thinking about this route reminds me of how fun Eldo climbing can be.
Here is the rumor/history behind the name Monument. This is not found in the excellent new, 2000 edition, guidebook. The cave was originally a stout aid route. An unknown climber was killed while nailing the roof when a tombstone sized block pulled out and crushed the poor guy. You can see the spot where the monument block once hung, just past the second bolt. Credible story? Well... the guy (Lee?) who told me this in 1973 was doing Northcutt free with bare feet and had nailed every hairy aid climb in Eldo worth doing.
The Whale's Tail
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