West Overhang 

When I did this route, I used the Rossiter 1st pitch that begins just right of the Big Boulder - 1 5.7 move maybe. then ran it out to the ledge. With this first pitch combined with the roof pitch, the climb was quite enjoyable for the grade. Very good symmetry on the two pitches as the "tough" climbing is at the start on both and you can fly the rest. With the rap bolts, made for a fast two pitches...I really liked the roof!

The roof is certainly fun, worth doing if other lines are busy, and 5.7 if done correctly. I went up there yesterday without the guide book, didn't see the fixed pin and foolishly clawed my way up the left most crack (don't ask me why, it just somehow looked easier at the time). Should have looked at CB.com, the pictures below demonstrate the correct line and use of gear.

This is an easy 7. If you're skeptical about it, go for it--the crux moves are over so quick, and it is good "roof practice" as the other moves on the route are so easy. The pin is not spectacular--half-driven angle (however solid looking and in good rock). I pulled on it pretty hard and one of the eyes flexed a bit; but the backup gear is good and the fall onto the pin if neccessary would be short. Fun route, well worth doing if waiting for other routes on the Wind Tower.

The first move, right of the huge block, goes straight up a crack and seems a lot more difficult than 5.7. I placed a piece in the crack, but moved right and climbed up and over the bulge -- which had no pro, but was definitely moderate.

I'm tall and found the secret handhold high in the crack to the 5.7 start right of the boulder. felt easier to me but might be a 5.7 if you are under 6'

We climbed on 3.23.03 - Ouch....I am 5'2" and I found the start to the right of the big boulder to be down right frightening...BUT...thanks to one very patient belay partner who was confident I could do it, having done it before himself, I got through it. It took three pieces of gear, 30 minutes of thinking about it (okay, maybe 45 minutes), and 100% confidence in my feet because I couldn't reach any hand hold. In a way, I think it might be safer for the leader than the follower given the stretch in the rope. Once you pull through the crux there is a lot of relief and the sweet satisfaction of accomplishment. Go do it...it is fun.

Great fun. I start angling right to the pin and then climbed back left to a comfortable stem. Plenty of holds. (I'm 5'9"). It was a great feeling to pull over the roof on lead.

The start of P1 could be awkward for shorter leaders, if the obvious handhold is out of reach. The roof seemed reasonable, with big positive handholds, and well-protected with piton plus gear. A 50m rope JUST get you from the bolts at the top left of P2 to the top of P1. The second rap is from slings around a short tree 15 feet or so below this point, so with one 50m you have to downclimb this easy but somewhat exposed section between raps. From the tree, a 50m goes to the ground with a little rope to spare. I think one double rap on 2 50s may go barely to the ground from the bolts, but might cause hassles with getting caught when pulled.

Frickin' giant holds on the roof! I was having a bad, headachey day when I climbed this, and really didn't want to muster any energy for difficulty, so was lucky to find every hold through this roof as big as a handlebar. The feet are stonker to boot, making this a fairly easy lead.

However, I went up the dihedral once over the roof, all the way to the top where I encountered an unprotectable 5.2-5.4 face (easy) over which was a spacious ledge on the southeast side of Wind Tower. In other words, I missed the rap anchors and climbed above the walk-off ledge. Seeing an opportunity for adventure we scampered up the scary upper face at about 5.4 s (best done as a solo anyway, so I hear). Watch out if you do this as every hold is loose and protection sparse. Takes you to the summit with 10 feet to spare on a 200 [ft].

Good.... I'm not the only one to have climbed past the rap anchors at the top of the second pitch.

Good route for a beginner leader - I belayed a friend of mine on his second trad lead. There is good gear at the (early) crux on each pitch, and practically no danger of falling after that.

Watch for falling ropes: Ropes thrown from the rap anchors will fall where you want to belay for the second pitch.

The tree just up and right of the big detached block has fallen down into the line of the route on pitch 1, making it a bit unpleasant.

West Overhang proved to be fun. The roof looks intimidating but has the most amazing holds. We did Tigger--an awesome route in its own right--on the same day, and I'd say that this route is only a little more difficult. If you're breaking into 5.7s, you couldn't pick a better confidence builder.

I made the same mistake as Adam Hicks, where he says:

"... I went up the dihedral once over the roof, all the way to the top where I encountered an unprotectable 5.2-5.4 face (easy) over which was a spacious ledge on the southeast side of Wind Tower. In other words, I missed the rap anchors and climbed above the walk-off ledge."

From the ledge he mentions, I was able to downclimb left (facing the rock) to the rap anchors without problem.That might save a trip up to the top and around the 4th class stuff...unless that's what you're looking for =)

If your second is a little shaky or intimidated by the roof, a belay can be set just after the crux on the second pitch to facilitate communication. I think I put in a #4 Friend (or maybe something slightly smaller) and some other solid pieces there. There's a small but comfortable ledge to stand on and one can lean out to guide the second up over the roof.

Note that there's a new 2-bolt rap anchor near the top of p1 of The Bomb just below the big mid-way ledge. This replaces the tree rap anchor that's been used to rap from the big ledge in the past. More info is on the main Wind Tower page.

Fun little roof, seemed so juggy that it would be more of a 5.6 (and I'm definitely under 6') and protected well with hand-sized cams.

I wouldn't aim to do this as a destination climb as it is a one or two move wonder before getting very easy. It is worth doing if you already climbed on the Tower and hit it on the rappel down as escape from Calypso drops you right at its base.

Kevin - Thanks for the chains, I've been up there with people who hate the down climb to the tree.