Bolting for Glory 

The holds are getting slicker as the years go by....

A green (#2) Splitter cam is useful for the pull over the edge after the 4th bolt. Not necessary, but feels more secure.

The rating seems right for the crux at the 3rd bolt.

Great route! The first bolt is spinning on its hanger! The rest are in good condition. Bring a sling to sling a hole between the fourth and fifth bolts. I was not sure how to finish the climb but I swung over the dihedral and joined Touch and Go [before the] bolts.

This route was great! The start is a little stiff, or at least it was for me, but over all it was good. Good crimps toward the top and lots of good route finding. I would recommed this at the route to take if trying to get to the first pitch of the naked edge.

This was a great route, it got me thinking more than most 10a's. Maybe thats just me though. The edges felt slick and not very secure but the moves are all at the 10a level, just intimidating. As for a crux I thought it wasn't definitivly at the 3rd bolt but throughout because of the lack of security in the footholds. Also, beware the first bolt hanger is loose and spinning.

Yeah, the first hanger is still loose but felt safe nonetheless. Really nice pitch and recommended for variety after P1 of Touch and Go.

Excellent moves past four well placed bolts, though the polished and somewhat greasy holds made this feel a bit harder than 5.10a to me. The first hanger still spins.

I never saw a bolt after the hueco hole that you sling... I kinda climbed up and left to the anchors. Hmmm...

Nice route, more direct than the second half of T&G, kind of slippery. There's definitely a bolt past the hueco.

It is not getting any less slick. Time for an up-grade on the rating. I soloed this thing in 1995 on my way up to The Naked Edge. These days I am more likely to fall off of this than The Edge itself.

Yep, pretty slick in all the hard spots making it seem like one of the harder 10a's the other day. Mebbe someone's greasing up the holds with spray on Pam cooking oil. Replacing those twenty year old bolts would probably be timely. If the first spinner blows, you will definitely eat the ledge, that would suck.

Yes it's still slippery. Weird to be clipping bolts in Eldo. Fun, short route.

This route was slippery the first time I did it, in 1991, and feels the same every time since. 10a feels spot on. Every route feels harder in the blazing sun.

My most memorable lead of this route was after sitting in a bar in Longmont with friends, talking about how winters suck. It was almost last call, and I finally suggested to Jason and Bruce that we do a free, midnight, winter ascent of The Naked Edge. I offered to lead every pitch if they would man up for the event.

My girlfriend was with us, and rolled her eyes at my suggestion, until Jason - RIP, good friend - said that he was in. Bruce was a bit reticent at first, but he soon realized that he couldn't pass up the adventure. My girlfriend took the car and left, and then Jason, Bruce, and I headed off to get our gear.

It was f--king cold and snowy in the canyon, and there was no moonlight, so I depended solely on my headlamp to see the holds. Bolting For Glory went easily enough to Jason and I. That was definitely my most exciting lead of BFG so far. Heading into The Edge seemed reasonable, too. Jason had little trouble following, but Bruce quickly realized that he was over his head and didn't want to slow us down.

It was freezing out, and we all had a few brews in us, so we decided to rap off and call it good. Sometimes I regret not having finished, that night, but The Edge isn't going anywhere, and maybe I still have a few adventures left in me. Time will tell.