This route is on the left side of the upper tier of Rincon Wall, and is a great finish after Rincon, but it is slightly harder.
The route is reached by walking to the top or completing one of the lower routes. It's only 1 pitch, but it is a great pitch. Be careful to move right below the flake and then back left under the roof, or prepare for a serious "Bat's Ass Kicking." Done direct the route felt like 5.12, and I hung on it several times before my partner pointed out my error (going direct).
Protection
The route can be protected on a standard rack. The second crux is a little ways from good gear, but is only 5.10a/b. Maybe the route does not deserve the PG rating, but I err on the side of caution.
Since there's only one other comment on this excellent route, I'll add my two cents. A steep jug haul leads to a pumpy undercling sequence around and over a bulge to thank God jugs. The undercling feels insecure--where the hell do you put your feet?! Crazy to think that Derek H. free-soloed it! Pulling left around the roof is pretty exciting. No need for the R rating; good gear where you need it. Nice setting, too.
Hmm. My partner told me to go right and then back left also, but I wasn't feelin' it. After coming off a few times, I git an undercling, smedged my up as high as I could got the right hand over the roof and just hucked for it!! Pretty exciting li'l all point dyno to get the Jugs!
By blakeherrington From: Bellingham, WA Jun 1, 2009 rating: 5.10c
Good finish to Rincon. Feels very soft for the grade if you are ok on steep+good holds. Not sure why this gets a PG-13. Partner and I both found it one of the most well-protected 5.11s in Eldo. The face just below the underlcling is steep enough so that you wont hit it if you fall at the crux. If this rock was more slabby, I could see it being PG-13.
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