This route is difficult to find by following the description in the guidebooks, but is obvious once you are there and see it. From the base of the [Lower] Peanuts Wall, below Your Basic Lieback and Star Wars, among others, look uphill and to your right. You will see a small tower of rock with a sharp lightning-bolt finger-crack. going up, to the right, then up again, with the crack getting wider as you climb upwards. It is a good lead or fun TR. Spots are thin and cruxy, but the route is not hard at its grade. The route is generally chalked.
Protection
Standard rack with good nuts and small to medium TCUs at the crux.
This is a short, but fun and demanding lead. Four pieces of pro will get you through it, which include a small wire (3?), [a couple of] medium and a large cam (not sure exact size). I wasn't psyched about the direction of the cam placement at the crux, about 15/18 ft up, so I stuck two in (a 6&7 [Trango size])... The climb goes straight up the finger crack, then right into an open, diagonal band (where you need the large cam). (There's also a variation that follows a crack from the left into the crux). Decent feet on the right when you're pushing past the band. Once through that traverse there's plenty of space to rest, then a pair or cracks on top that are easier to negotiate. This route is a bit like a 10a boulder problem sitting on top of a highball V1... fun!
A #3.5 Camalot works good for protecting the band traverse; otherwise, one can climb the band unprotected and risk a swinging fall. This climb was tough for me, but enjoyable. Have fun, Shane
Fun linkup to Star Wars. #6 BD stopper, blue Alien, #2 Camalot, #3 Camalot for the traverse, and a #1 Camalot for the final paired cracks.
By Clint Locks From: Boulder Jun 8, 2006 rating: 5.10b PG13
Finally! Always wondered what this one was called. Next time I won't stick all the gear where my fingers need to go...and I'll bring a #4 cam for the diagonal band. All and all--good fun! And it DOES make for a good link-up with Star Wars, to be sure.
By mike r From: longmont,CO Jun 21, 2007 rating: 5.10 PG13
Awesome link up to Star Wars or any other climb up there. Didn't know what it was, but I am glad I did it!
Lower Peanuts
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