Joseffa Meir follows Whiplash (10c) on the West Ri...
Description
Another one of the best winter climbs in Eldo if done from the top of Xanadu. The four-star rating is the overall rating for the two climbs put together. Xanadu is 4 stars on its own, and this is icing on that cake, a classic roof-crack finish that is safe and takes good gear.
Protection
The pro solid and pleantiful. Take a set of 1-2.5" cams: a 1.5" (blue HB Quadcam) + one red Camalot will do the job if you are solid at the grade. Double up if you want to sew it up overhead as you climb. Gear can be placed overhead at any time.
We climbed Xanadu, traversed through some very rotten rock, underneath Whiplash, then further left (NW), to a grassy gully type area where an aok belay was set up. Whiplash was very good though short, I felt no need for a double set of cams, easy to put in 4 cams in 10-20 feet, yellow Alien to Red Camalot, sewn up. Crack very sharp so tape up! We rapped off of a tree to another tree just SE and down from top of Xanadu. 2 raps total, one rope.
By Peter Spindloe Administrator From: North Vancouver, BC Mar 11, 2002
Go do "Cruising for Bulgar" at SoBo Buttress and then decide if tape isn't useful in Eldo. Actually, I got a little scratched up on Whiplash, but that was more because I didn't reach far enough for a good jam, and tried to pull on a half-in thin hand jam.
Climbed this today. My partner Shigemichi was leading, and just before the crux after setting pro he grabbed the last big jug with both hands, I guess to rest. Anyway, it came off, I'd guess about a 25 pound football and he fell backwards and upside down, coming to a halt with his head 2-3 feet from a fin of rock. I yelled rock loudly. Fortunately the only people in the area were a party on Xanadu, which was enough to the right that they heard the rock but that was it. Even though we were there pretty early, I 'd say it was pretty unusual and very lucky that there weren't lots of people at the base. Anyway, be careful out there folks...and don't assume that routes are always going to be safe just because the pro is good!
My partner and I went up to scope out Whiplash recently, but we couldn't figure out which crack was the actual route. There are two cracks on either side of a 4-foot-wide block, and both had chalk on them. The route on the right is an overhanging crack that looks like wide hands, whereas the route on the left was less steep and looked better for small hands. Does Whiplash follow the crack on the right or the left of the block? Anyone have any info on the non-Whiplash route?
Whiplash is to the left--- with protection to 2.5." The thing to the right is harder (5.12) and is caled Parlez-Vous Hangdog. I tried it once, and found that 'Oui, je parle hangdog.'
West Ridge - top to Xanadu
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