Josh Janes entering the crux of Muscular Dystrophy...
Description
Up at the top of the West Ridge, this route has nice position. The first pitch is easy 5.9, then comes a nice crux. It is very technical, but not sustained, a 3-move sequence with a big gravity bill waiting for anyone who doesn't keep their eyes and mind wide open. It seems a little harder than some area 5.11a's, but again, the crux is short.
Protection
The pro solid for someone of average height. The crux is a bomber small-medium (#6BD) nut placement above the head that is at the feet when the crux is completed. Take a normal rack with 2 big-hand-sized cams for the jams getting up to the crux.
I did this climb this morning. This 2 star route is a good choice for an aspiring 11- leader. The crux is not too long, not too hard and not too generic. Also, as the reviewer stated, the gear is bomber. All the pitches are short and the belay ledges are nice. It is possible to rap from some fixed slings at the top of P2 (it wouldn't hurt for someone to replace 1 of them), but the 3rd pitch is worth doing and the walk-off is very easy. For P3, basically head slightly left, then up to the crack.
The first pitch is quite nice. The second pitch is an overrated one move wonder. That said, in view of the excellent pro throughout, this would be a good canidate for a first Eldo "11" lead.
Crux is brief and awkward. May be easier for those closer to the ground.
Very fun 5.9 climbing to a short crux. Physical jamming to a hard move. I agree with Tony... there are definitely easier 11a's at Eldo.
By Guy Humphrey From: Fort Collins CO Mar 27, 2004 rating: 5.11a
There is a new fixed nut at the crux. My partner logged a little air time. Next time, I will bring only a #3 and #3.5 Camalot for the wide crack. The 3.5 fits in a pod at the end of the wide crack.
There is currently a microwave sized very loose block on the belay ledge beneath the crux. It seems the whole ledge has recently undergone some erosion that has loosened up the block. If someone can safley trundle it, it would be good public service. If you are climbing the first pitch, be really careful when you get to the ledge
Took a 20 foot whipper onto a purple TCU after successfully pulling the crux and working toward the anchors on slopey crimps by heading way left (tunnel vision caused me to miss the obvious jug to the right!) Climbed back up using the key hold and made it go.
Agreed with above. A good route for someone looking to break into 11s at Eldo.
Short technical crux which isn't powerful, just sequency with good gear.
West Ridge - top to Xanadu
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