Tony Bubb Leads Muscle and Hate, a new route on th...
Description
Up by Practice Climb 101 and Sidewall, the routes do not all go to the top of the ridge. Above the two [aforementioned] routes there is a large ledge. Muscle and Hate is a logical 3rd pitch to either of these. Step left around a big corner to a medium sized pine tree with a rap station. Look up through the huge roof with a 3" crack going out its right side. Climb pockets and a Hueco [from the] ledge up into the crack (TCU in pocket to protect to the side) and pull some strange moves to get into the crack-then roll for the top. This is a great climb that still needs some consensus to confirm the grade.
Protection
The pro is not THAT bad, but the boulder-ish start could produce a twisted ankle on the ledge. The potential for serious injury is low. Take a set of cams, or to sew it up, take a double set of cams, plus a single #4.
The route has been cleaned a little and has now had at least a second lead (on-sight); it is confirmed at a 5.11 grade. I followed it this time.
We thought it was more like 5.10, maybe a little bit serious before you get the first bomber hand jam.....every hold is either a jug or a sinker jam, and a double set of cams would be excessive. Still a fun diversion if you're in the neighborhood.
A couple of body lengths of climbing through crap rock (stepping from some very questionable piles of donkey dung) to get to a couple of body lengths of steep, lichen-covered hand crack. . . 3 stars?????? What am I missing?
West Ridge - Pony Express to Long John
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