BETA PHOTO: Heart of Gold. Start up Rush Buick, then break le...
Description
If this route were anywhere else in the Canyon (other than the Rotwand) it would be incredibly popular. Unfortunately it is 2/3 of the way up Hawk Eagle Ridge, an area which has fallen desperately out of vogue, despite being home to some forgotten Eldo classics, such as DOA (5.11); Cinch Crack (5.12); Jupiter (5.9); Tombstone (5.11-); and Die Heeda Rule (5.11). If one were to brave the steep hike up the eroded and vegetated trail, which seems imaginary at times, a stellar climb awaits.
If you want to onsight this route, don't read any further.
The route has three difficult sections of decreasing techinical difficulty, but increasing endurance. The first 3 bolts protect the most technically dificult, crimpy climbing of the route.
The business is at the second bolt and involves stemming the left foot up as high as possible on some good foot holds on a diagonalling ramp/crack system and reaching a small, sharp, good hold below the third bolt. There are several options on how to get your left hand on the elusive hold just below the third bolt. Once there, hit the curving ledge and stay right of the third bolt, stemming to the crack, and cruise to a good rest by a double bolt anchor.
The second difficult section is above the aforementioned (or is that hitherto mentioned) anchor. Some tricky climbing involving toe points, heel hooks, and other (until now) inobvious tricks gets you to opposing laybacks and finally a bucket. (Well, its really sort of a finger bucket, but welcome none the less.) Having overcome this, there's a bit of interesting climbing to what appears to be a long runout to a bolt in a flake. Fortunately, the climbing is substantially easier than the 2 sections just described. Again a long rest is possible before embarking on the finale.
The last difficult section involves several inobvious holds (if its been raining and if no one has done the route since 1996). After clipping the second to last bolt off good holds, heel hook with the right foot up and left for a great inobvious hold beneath a small roof with the left hand. From there it's a long move right to an OK edge, from which some feet arranging is necessary to get a very small left facing corner (L of the bolt) with the left hand. More feet juggling to gain height and get in balance, a right hand pop to the obvious diagonal ledge and you're at the anchors. If you have a 50 meter rope, you're in trouble. If you have a 60m you'll just make it.
All in all an admirable route that tests the face climbing skills that Eldo is famous for without the fear factor that Eldo is alos famous for.
One last piece of advice: Do it on a cool day.
Protection
Approximately 11 bolts to 2 bolt anchor about 30 meters up. A 70 meter rope is real nice; a 60 meter works fine; plan on downclimbing rush buick or leaping if you've got a 50 meter.
One could place a 1, 2.5, or 3 Friend getting to the first bolt, and an alien, tcu or 4-6 rock could be placed about 2/3 of the way up, but the climbing in both of these sections is substantially easier than the cruxes on the route.
As the other comments indicate, make sure you are a SOLID slab climber before attempting this route. The crack rules--but the serious part of this climb comes at the top (end) of the finger crack, where, unless you climb 5.11b, you must traverse directly right to gain a ledge/rail. This right traverse comes after good gear, but is very run out and could lead to a long pendulum into the belayer on steep cheese grater [Eldo sandstone].
By Hank Caylor From: Eldorado Springs, CO Feb 9, 2008 rating: 5.12- PG13
A great route until the runout between the 8th and 9th bolt. Sorta weird clipping bolts every few feet and then getting schooled on the runout section up high. Maybe it's just payback for those Flatiron routes I mis-bolted the late 80s. Anyhoo, congrats to K. Stricker and anyone else that's onsighted this baby.
By Kevin Stricker From: Evergreen, CO Feb 9, 2008 rating: 5.12-
Hank, Did you step right and work up to the flake then up to the roof? I was able to get a few C4s in the flake and the climbing looked easier than continuing straight up past the 8th bolt. It was a bit spooky, and I was a bit pumped and glad I didn't whip. BTW I didn't onsight, as my partner had tried it first and hung the draws and chalked all the key holds! So beta flash at best.
By Hank Caylor From: Eldorado Springs, CO Feb 9, 2008 rating: 5.12- PG13
Naw man, I tried to boot it straight up the arete to get to the 9th bolt but then just didn't want to take the whip (it's sorta loose and all I had were draws anyways).....oh well, I got payback incentive for that thing. As soon as I fire it easily next time, I'll give it 3 or 4 stars. Nice job on the beta flash anyways Kevin.
Hawk-Eagle Ridge
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