Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Redgarden - Tower Two
Show routes:
Select route...
Bolting for Glory 
Briny Deep, The 
Cave Pitch 
Contest, The 
Diving Board, The 
Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) 
Fools Learn 
Genius Loci 
Ghoul's Turn 
Green Willow Wall 
Jules Verne 
Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation 
Lene's Dream 
Love Minus Zero 
Naked Edge, The 
No Lo Contendere 
Plastic Jesus 
Predator 
PsychGillLogical 
Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent 
Rosy Crucifixion 
Scratch and Sniff 
Serpent, The 
Shasta 
Slow Train Coming 
T2 
Touch 'N' Go 
Weeping Willow 
Wild Kingdom 

Plastic Jesus 

5.11b R

   

FA: Roger & Bill Briggs 1985
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11 [details]
Views: 400 page views

Submitted By: Steve Levin on Jan 5, 2001


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Description 

This is actually a variation to the 3rd pitch of Rosy Crucifixion. Climb up about 20 feet on P3 of Rosy, place a good piece of gear, then traverse left on friable rock to a small R-facing corner, and continue with the L-diagonal crack system, almost joining Wild Kingdom near the top. The climbing is steep and interesting, with an inobvious crux move and a bit of a runout above (on easier climbing). Adds a good 50 feet of seldom-traveled rock to Rosy...with the Le Toit to Rosy connection (see comments in Le Toit section) and this as a finish, you can pack a lot of climbing into 2 or 3 pitches.


Protection 

Have a good selection of TCUs included with a standard Eldo rack.



Add Comment Comments on Plastic Jesus
Show which comments
By Steve Levin
Nov 25, 2001

Mike Schlauch reminded me of some crux beta you may wish to know...from the last gear (a green Alien) at the end of the flake it is unclear which way to go, and some of us are drawn up and right into no-mans land. Better to move left with good feet but poor hand holds, then step back right a bit higher.

By Steve Levin
May 2, 2002

Talked with Roger about the way he went on the first ascent. He moved right at the blank-out spot, not left like I described in the comments. Either way its good climbing. -SL

By Brad Bond
Mar 16, 2003

I have done this both ways and would advise going left at the top. The right finish requires the leader to yard (In my case, for dear life!) on a huge loose flake that feels like it could come off, a good ways above the last piece.

By Charles Vernon
From: El Paso, TX
Mar 17, 2003

I was climbing Rosy one time while some folks were above us on this route...the leader pulled off a decent sized flake, but somehow managed to keep from dropping it (or falling). Since we were below him as well as people on the lower ramp, he put the thing down his pants and led the rest of the pitch that way!

By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 6, 2003

This is a sustained and interesting climb in a great position. The gear is bomber though the hard moves are a bit above your last piece. It seems that this is the logical finish to Rosy instead of simply a varation.

By david goldstein
Aug 25, 2004
rating: 5.11b

Steep, exposed face climbing with pretty good rock.

The pro is good except for the 5.9ish traverse left after the crux. A grey (smallest) TCU can provide top rope pro for the crux. A gold Camalot fits perfectly into a hole in an othewise hard to protect area near the end of the pitch.

In my book, a solid Eldo 3 star outing when done in conjunction with Le Toit and Rosy Le Toit.

My partner and I felt that 11C was a pretty soft Eldo rating for this pitch, especially when compared to the "10d" first pitch of Le Toit.

By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 15, 2006
rating: 5.11b R

I didn't read any of this before I did this climb and finished right on the bigger holds because I was pumped. I tend to have insecure footwork and stong arms, so I pull a lot harder than average on holds that I can wrap up (at least if the number of holds I spin or break at a gym is any indicator).
I reached the final flake and it creaked and groaned, urging me to back off a little. So yes, I think you can finish on it (I did) but think someday someone big is going to pull hard and it will come off.
It is large enough that should it turn loose it will mame or kill someone below if it hits them. Luckily, the odds of such would seem extremely low.

By Guy Humphrey
From: Fort Collins CO
May 14, 2006
rating: 5.11c PG13

The key piece of gear on the pitch is a blue Alien or 0.2 Camalot. I would suggest 3-4 cams in this size and doubles up to a 0.75 Camalot.

It is possible to traverse to Wild Kingdom's last bolt, if you can't figure out the finishing moves on PJ.

By Greg Miller
From: Boulder,CO
Nov 7, 2007

I have put this route off for a while and finally got on it the other day.. some of my thoughts follow....

You can easily climb up to the crux, place gear and down climb to a decent rest. A single set of Aliens and Camalots to 0.75 seemed plenty. And an optional gold Camalot in a sidepull or pod at the top of the pitch, if you place it there though you eliminate the hold. I went left after the top of the crack, a traverse with good feet and decent hands to a fixed purp TCU (which is at about knee level once your done the traverse... then up from there) going right looked like a cop-out due to the fact once you would be around the corner the climbing is over.... Going left adds to the pump and gives you more great climbing... making it more .11c?, but what do the letters really matter.

Either way, great climb and good position. We did Le Toit-Rosy Toit-Plastic Jesus.