Brendan Freedman near the top of Breezy on his fir...
Description
Getting to the climb: Hike across the bridge to the Wind Tower trail, marked by a sign that shows falling rock. Continue north and uphill along this trail and go around the start of Wind Ridge to the north side of Wind Tower.
There are two starts to Breezy: The 5.6 start ascends a dihedral that is sometimes used as the start to Wind Ridge. To the left of this dihedral, the 5.5 start is at the base of a rock scramble below a skinny juniper tree.
P1: Ascend boulders past the skinny juniper tree. Just above the tree, put in a directional piece of pro (an alien works well) and do a hand-traverse right on a thin ledge, then scramble up on a boulder. A second hand-traverse and scramble up will give you access to a west-facing crack system, and here you can see the belay ledge for Wind Ridge. Go left around the corner and up cracks and boulders about 15 feet to the first belay, which is marked by a short, twisted juniper tree.
P2: Follow the west-facing crack system up. Climb up to a thin ledge, then hand-traverse left on thin edges and crystals for your feet. Clamber up to a hand-crack on the left and a finger-crack on the right. A Friend was stuck tight in the finger-crack when we were there, and made for a quick clip-in. Jam and stem your way up, and choose between a narrow chimney jammed full of chockstones on the left, or a clean face & dihedral on your right. The chockstones make for easier climbing and easy natural pro, but possible rockfall! Scramble up and over one last clean move to reach the walk-off top. Wrap a big cordelette or 20' webbing around the boulders at the top to start your anchor, back it up with cams / hexes, and belay your second up!
The descent is a walk-off down the well used trail. Careful of loose rock and dirt on the ledges, and be ready to put inexperienced climbers on belay if the descent is a little scary.
A fun, mixed climb with great pro. This climb is often in the shade, so bring a jacket in the evening. Really be careful of loose rock on this side of the Wind Tower.
Protection
Excellent placements for Aliens and hexes! Camming devices up to #3 Camalot are useful. A couple of stoppers, and webbing slings (trees & chockstones make good natural pro).
Led this 6/7/01, an excellent climb! Ample protection and lots of variations possible. I highly recommend the 5.6 start as the moves are well-protected and fun. By not using the crack for holds, you can make sections of it a 5.7-9 face climb at the top slab w/ great pro in the finger crack, or step left out onto the arete for a little exposure.
I also enjoyed this lead. Actually led P1 of Wind Ridge and then (to avoid traffic & backups), finished with P2 of Breezy. Worked pretty good. Thought P2 was pretty nice & clean.
This can easily be led as one pitch with a 55 meter rope, probably shorter; I don't recall exactly how much rope was left. There will likely be some character-building drag at the top though.
Easy Breezy! A better and IMO easier way to do this climb is as follows: Gear up and shed packs on the trail by a tiny juniper tree, about 30 feet up from the Wind Ridge start. Traverse/scramble right (kind of awkward with a pack; no need to be roped up) and belay on a nice ledge, 5 feet left of the insloping belay ledge atop P1 of WR. Work up the crack(s) passing a short juniper, and on to the top! Beautiful climb with fun moves. I can't wait to try the 5.6 variation!
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Aug 25, 2002
Rossiter calls this 5.4 and I have to agree (and I think everything at Eldo is sandbagged). I also thought the direct start was only 5.4 but was very fun and much more logical than traversing in. Really nice climb, and very little rope drag when done as one pitch with the direct start.
I did it with the direct start, one 60m rope and not an ounce of rope drag...I guess I just placed well, with everything in line and all, and I didn't place too often. The upper cracks need some close protection, but after the small crux stemming between the hand and finger crack, it seemed there wasn't too much need for pro every few feet. Anyhoo, also wanted to mention a cool finish that Rossiter mentions. Go straight up from the top of Breezy (standing on walk off ledge, of course), using a nice V-slot, left facing dihedral. Pass the old, twisted, dead tree on it's left, working out onto the face via a nice foot ledge to join up with West Ridge for the last 40 feet. Once you work out above you is a sweet 40 feet of juggy face climbing to another tree. You can scramble up and over it or you can belay from a cave either below it or right next to its base but above the roots. We did this belay so we could rappel easily from the tree to the walk-off ledge at the top of Breezy. Alright, that's it! Happy climbing!
The crux of this climb is right at the start! We started right next to the start of Wind Ridge (the spot where the giant dihedral would touch the ground) and it was definitely a tricky move - be ready to put in pro (green alien works well) right above your head so you can pull up through the first move. The rest of the pitch is super easy (I put in a #1 camalot as a precaution). P2 is a lot of fun! Good protection in big cracks all the way to a huge ledge from which you can walk down. There always seemed to be a hold right where you needed it.
Fun climb. I've used it many times as a first climb or lead for people. Going right after the wide crack into the left facing dihedral at the top spices things up a bit (5.7?). Can easily be led in one pitch using the 5.6 start and a 60 M rope with almost no drag (use shoulder length runners).
I did this route today with my friend Rick, who just moved to Arvada from back east, and we both thought it was a great time! Lots of neat moves on solid rock, with plenty of great gear - at least Rick said so :-)
Agree that this is a good route, but don't know if it's such a great first lead unless the leader has good beta. The exposure can be threatening, and it's easy to wander into harder-than-5.5 territory--at least, that is, past the big ledge. If you do this in two pitches, then, assume that the second pitch will be the spicy one. Anchoring at the top walkoff can demand [creativity] if you came up with a thin rack.
You can easily anchor at the top of the 2nd pitch by wrapping the large boulder that is right in front of you when you pop up onto the ledge. Took me a few times to figure this one out, but if you got a thin rack it works great.
Another great moderate route on Wind Tower. This route felt better, harder, and more exposed than The Bomb, and took better gear, IMHO. If The Bomb is 5.4 this route is at least 5.5. I really enjoyed the exposure and the moves going up this route... If you have a couple of leads under your belt, this is a good one to try...
This route is super fun. The walk-off is nice too. I did it in one pitch with minimal rope drag, although like most of the routes on wind tower, communication with your partner is problematic. The left finger crack feels harder than the dihedral but has ample pro. The exposure on the left crack is good.
Did this today, direct start. Other than one or two moves at the beginning, the first pitch is very mellow. Setting up a belay at the gnarled tree is a bit sketchy--you have the tree, and a nut above your head, but I couldn't find any other solid placements. The second pitch, however, makes it all worthwhile. It's super fun, easy jamming.
Fun route! The second pitch was much better than it looked from the ledge atop pitch one. I agree with James that this may not be such a good route for the new leader.
Climbed the route yesterday. The second pitch of it would probably not be a very good first lead. I regret traversing in from the left as it is an approach pitch and will definitely start in the dihedral next time. There is some decent exposure for the grade and if you lace it up, constructing an anchor at the top can be somewhat difficult. I used the medium-sized boulder on the ledge but protected the cracks on the left, which caused a small pendulum for the second, but nothing serious. The boulder will do for an anchor, but the flakes on the ledge worried me a bit. Perhaps I am just a safety freak.
By Mark Nelson From: Coniferous, CO Jun 19, 2006 rating: 5.5
Fun Second Pitch, try the climber's-right fingertip semi-variant dihedral to finsh this pitch out (blue Alien).
Comment on the 'good for new leader?' question: I would suggest this as a perfect lead for someone new to trad leading but with a fair amount of sport leading (at higher grades than this) under her belt. My reasoning is that even if the moves can be spicy (love that word, thanks) for someone nervous on lead, the climb has ample protection friendly to a new trad leader to place in. It was my second trad lead and was just exposed enough and with enough 5.7-if-you-arent-using-Eldo-ratings moves to really grab my attention but had enough easy placements to set my mind at ease.
By Jared Workman From: Boulder Mar 21, 2007 rating: 5.5
I was out climbing yesterday and ended up doing the first pitch of Wind Ridge, but, having climbed the whole thing too many times, decided to try the second pitch on Breezy out. I have to say I found it to be absolutely stellar. It may be the most fun I have ever had on a 5.5. It has bomber pro, great cracks, and is very nicely sustained for the grade once the climbing starts. I think this route is the epitome of 5.fun.
My friend who follows Eldo 5.8s well enough thought it might be a bit spicy for a first lead at the grade, but I'd say go try it out. It protects well enough that it would be a good bit of spice for a newer leader.
The twisted juniper at the top of P2 is now only a twisted juniper root. Belay at a good comfortable ledge in the dihedral. The first pitch was good and the finger crack system on the left was lotsa fun!! I think this went at closer to 5.6 than 5.5
After the fun move at the start of the 5.6 variation, the rest of "pitch 1" is a slog, try not to get your shoes too sandy in the gully. We did the route as one pitch with a 60m rope. The upper half however is great fun and worth the scramble up the pitch 1 gully. Found 3 solid placements in the small crack at the back of the ledge in the left facing corner. Has anyone climbed that corner? It seems to have a pin scar near the ledge.
I would tend to disagree with some of the "first lead" comments. I find gear to be easy at the cruxes and throughout the second pitch. Much of the first pitch is easy climbing (maybe 4th class), but the gear seems sparse and tricky to me. This makes the route a good lead for the grade if you are a confident trad climber but not if you are a sport climber who isn't used to scrambling easy terrain with little protection.
I think Breezy is a little harder than The Bomb (5.4), and about like Swanson's Arete (5.5).