The route is located in an area called Cirque of Cracks. If you follow the West Ridge trail past Positively Fourth Street, it will reach a crest and drop down a little... from here it's only about another 200 feet further. Look for an obvious off-width (Duh Dihedral) and some beautiful cracks on the right (Hand Crack, Terminal Velocity). Pool of Blood follows the large flake about 15 feet left of the off-width. I believe the name should be changed to Rope Drag, but otherwise a great climb.
Start at the obvious large flake. The crack is just about fist jam size, but it's leaning at an awkward angle that can keep you from lying back. Continue to the top of the flake (horn) and traverse right to Duh Dihedral. Finish up Duh Dihedral to the tree with rap slings.
Great climb because it is challenging to figure out and not as easy as it looks, even with the nasty rope drag (remember long runners!)
Protection
Bring #3 Camalots!! The easiest way to do this would be with at least a couple #3s and a #2 cam (use a #3.5 if you don't have two #3s). Mid sized cams from 0.3 to 1 for the finish. Plenty of single length runners.
Just did this last night. Great climb! Definitely long runners, and more than one #3 camalot. The Pool of Blood crack is beautiful, but watch for loose junk in Duh Dihedral.
This route can be finished directly from the top of the flake to the tree on some small holds and seams. This is probably 5.11- and there really is no gear, so a TR is advisable. (Bubb, Donson winter 2000?)
In Aments' guide "Eldorado" (published "75) there's a picture of Ament on the first ascent leading it with totally natural pro a la the Brits. He carried up chockstones, slung them with webbing and climbed on.Not having the right size at one point he sent down the rope for a few more rocks and there's a picture of him hauling them up. When Mark Willford (maybe 15 at the time) and I saw the picture it was his idea to try the same thing; no nuts only chockstones and we did it! He led, (one of his first leads) and I just kept tossing stones up to him! At the time we all had a little pool going as to how long he was going to live. I guess we all lost :)!
This is fun route up two beautiful flakes. The first one more offwidth and much wider and the second one about 2" wide all the way. Both slope up and out. I felt the second flake is the harder of the two, because the adjacent wall to the left is basically blank and the other side of the flake is featureless as well. Its inverted crack climbing to the ledge. Jamarouski! A fun TR after Du Dihedral, well worth the effort.
Fun route- although short it was actually quite challenging!! I'm still new to leading 5.9, so when I followed this I had to imagine what the lead was like, and personally I'm glad he did it and not me!! Both sections of the flake are awkward and hard to lay back- but were easy to protect. It is definitely harder than it appears to be from the ground!
By Shane Zentner From: Colorado Dec 20, 2004 rating: 5.9
#3 Camalots. The anchor at the top of 'Duh Dihedral' needs to be looked at. The left bolt needs to be tightened, as I recently discovered while hanging from the anchor.
This is an exciting 5.9 lead. The gear is bomber, but it is pumpy (at least to me) so you really can't place too much. The 2 crux sections are followed by good rests. Even though this route is fairly short it is well worth doing despite the rope drag. Enjoy!
I followed this route yesterday. Pretty beefy for a 9, I'd say. This route is all about brute force, there is no delicate foot work to be done. For me, it was more about the upper body pulling you over each of the flakes than anything. I tried to use good foot work, but that didn't seem to work very well :).
I couldn't place anything larger then 3 inches. There was no real offwidth, just hands to wide hands. Pretty unique line to the area. Well worth doing, if in passing.
Easier than it looks. I climbed the crack directly and it felt about right for the grade. As mentioned, bring an extra #3 Camalot or equivalently a #3.5 Friend.
West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony Express
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