The regular route (see Dihedral), goes left at the...
Description
Climb Your Basic Lieback (excellent short 5.6) and traverse to bolt belay ....climb up past rotten section into steepening dihedral corner that gets steep fingers up to a large flake.
The original route, Cornered or Dihedral, goes left at the undercling on the flake.....straight up variation goes up the steep but fun finger crack right of the flake in the corner (solid 5.9) to a big ramp/ledge with 2 bolt belay up and right.
Rappel 80 feet to bolt belay and 100 feet from there to ground...could easily be done as 1 long and fun pitch.
Protection
Smaller cams....double bolt anchor for both anchors.
Nice climb. Another way of descending: from the sloping ledge at the top, boulder up to the next ledge, then walk off toward the gully between Upper and Lower Peanuts.
This straight up version FA was Richard Rossiter in 1980, the original route Cornered or Dihedral (as it is renamed in the new guide book) goes left at large flake at top of dihedral, FA Erickson, solo 1978......I almost wussed out and went left at the beautiful undercling flake but the steep crack up the right side of the flake sucked me in....FUN.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Dec 6, 2001
Nice route straight up or undercling left. Nice entertainment just right on Forbidden Planet 11a.
I went straight up the Cornered variation and found it to be great fun. I think this is solid 5.9 as well. It protects well and makes a great finish to Your Basic Lieback.
By Kat A From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO May 18, 2008
Felt like solid Eldo 5.9 to me. Very nice thin crack, with good pro available.
RSS Feed
