A very thrilling pitch in a beautiful and exposed position. This route starts with Rosy Crucifixion and heads up and right from the first bolt on Rosy. There are about seven bolts in 150 feet of climbing (not as bad as it sounds). The first half of the route is the hardest with tricky balancy face moves that last for about 40 feet. The upper part has more rests, and a few tricky moves. Candelaria origionally rated this pitch .12a, but it definitely feels much easier. In the future it might live up to this rating as every other hold is on the verge of breaking. A beatiful and classic pitch.
Protection
This "sport" route has "healthy" distances between bolts. Expect to pull 5.11 moves a little ways above your last bolt, and 5.9 moves way above your last bolt. There are three or four gear placements to supplement the bolts, bring a selection of stoppers and a #2.5 Friend.
WARNING --- There is a very large, loose flake above and to the left of the 3rd bolt. (Fourth if you count the first bolt on Rosy.) It used to harbor a good left hand finger jam and optional alien placement, but it shifted and is now teetering there ready to go. It is directly above your belayer on the ramp. Climbing around the flake makes this section only slightly harder.
Mike Schlauch
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jul 5, 2004 rating: 5.11d
The loose flake is broken off, but below it, there is stilla stub. The reach off of this is big and I pulled HARD on it- retreating quickly when it flexed far enough for my fingers to slide behind it. It may still go with a hard tug, making the route harder and more sustained. It certainly will not hold a fall on gear. It felt solid when I pulled more conservatively on it to reach an intermediate rather than yarding on it wholesale.
Hard to give three stars to a route with so many crucial holds about to go. I give it 2.5 stars for the spectacular position and great climbing, but generally chossy rock.
The first 50-60 feet until the 5th bolt are very pumpy. The climbing wanders and you end up trying to rest from awkward stances while you routefind. The climbing favors tall climbers, since many of the lower cruxes involve the classic Eldo, "how do I get up to that jug?" syndrome. As for the difficulty, the climbing isn't as hard as consensus-11+ face climbs like Back in Black or Le Boomerang. But it is harder than several face climbs rated 11+ in the guidebook, which are more like mid-5.11, like Sunrider, Roll Over Rover, and Stargate. The 11c/d guidebook rating seems about right.
Redgarden - Tower Two
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