The Bulge 

Note that there is what looks to be the beginning of a wasps nest on pitch 3. If I remember correctly it was a bit above and to the left of the little bulge/roof thing right next to a great yellow mastercam placement! Was a bit bigger than a golf ball, but pretty sure I saw the ass end of a wasp going into it as I hastily pulled past it!

This was as of 7/18/09.

On the second pitch it is possible to place a #4 camalot in a big hole on the face, above the end of the crack, prior to traversing left to the next belay. This provides somewhat better protection than relying on the crack below for your last piece.

It seemed to me that for pitch 3, you go right, then back left past a bolt, THEN up and left to the belay. Lots of traversing around up there. A great variation to the last pitch is to climb straight up above the belay over a 5.9 bulge with an incipient crack (small stoppers or tcus needed).

Three comments:

Fun route

A fall on pitch 3 would really suck for the second - this is not a date climb.

Do the 5.9 finish. It's the easiest 5.9 in Eldo (possibly could be the easiest 5.8 in Eldo also) but quite worthwhile.

A few comments of my own:

Combining P1 and P2 was pretty reasonable. Although we had double ropes, I don't think the rope drag would be bad even with a single if you either put a very long sling on the P1 anchor or skip it entirely and clip the decent fixed pin just up and right on the traverse.

There is a good eye-level #3 Camalot placement in a hole on P3, about 7-10 feet left of the bolt, which will add to your second's comfort level.

I agree with Frank's comments above about the "5.9" finish. Fun moves, and sewn up in comparison with the rest of the route.

It's interesting to me that this only got two stars. For Eldo, and the routes I've done, I'd give it three stars. Rossiter calls it 'Top Ten' and it is in my top ten, certainly when pitted against other routes at the grade. The climbing is spicy, sustained for the grade (5.6-5.7), and there is virtually no loose rock.

One comment about the #3 Camalot placement - it is on the leader's right while traversing left, so it would be very easy to miss. Missing this piece not only means your second is unprotected, it also means you likely won't get another good piece for at least 50'.

I would concur with the three-star assessment as well, particularly in comparison to other Eldo climbs 5.7 and below. If you take the direct P4 exit (which IMO is no more difficult climbing-wise than P1 of the Bastille Crack), every pitch on this route is solid, fun, and fairly exposed. The same cannot be said for other climbs of the grade in Eldo. Of course, I agree with Frank's assessment that it is "not a date climb", so the comparisons may not be apples-to-apples.

Ben, I've been waiting for someone to comment...You know, I was climbing with Lang, what can I say. Someone had to carry it... Sadly, I only placed 3 pieces on the pitch. We did this again on 11/24, so I think I could adequately pare down the rack now.

Oh, the real answer? I'm a weiner!

It's hard to argue with Kreighton's "climbing with Lang" logic. The truth is, we were in training for our upcoming attempt to free a Baffin Island wall in winter. Not shown in the picture are our two haulbags, extra rack, and Kreighton's dogs.

I note that we cut the rack in half on 11/24, and still had about 99% too much gear. You could probably get by on a few trick draws, an extra sling or two, a full set of RPs and stoppers, and #0.5 and #4 Friends.

The oversized rack in the photos below appears to be the source of some confusion, notwithstanding the explanations above. Rather than repeat those explanations, I'll pose this question to the group: Assume you're heading up to onsight an Eldo route. You know that the route is "S", but details about the actual line of the route, the belays, and the mid-pitch gear that *is* available is sketchy at best. Assume further that you have not pumped anyone for detailed beta, since part of the fun is figuring things out as you go. Although solid at the grade, you would prefer not to unnecessarily run it out, and would also prefer to back up the fixed pins and belays if possible. What do you leave behind in the car/pack?

...I usually take a full set of RP's and stoppers, cams from 00 TCU to #4 Friend, #6-#8 BD Hexes, 10 or so trick draws, a webolette, and the standard accoutrements (nut tool, an extra locker or two, 3 or 4 extra biners). I usually will leave everthing else behind, although occasionally I will take doubles in blue and green alien. Too much? Too little? I really am interested in more experienced thoughts concerning a "standard Eldo onsight rack" if there is such a thing. [Also, a pink tricam]

I would say anything larger than a #2 Camalot is unnecessary on a "standard" Wldo rack, notwithstanding an obvious wide crack. The best thing to do, however, is bring what you feel comfortable with, and if you look up at a pitch and find you don't need some crap just unload it on the second. They love that!

....As for The Bulge (guess I'd better say something vaguely relevent) you can help protect your second on pitch three. There is a nice placement for a large cam; #3 or #4 Friend (and maybe an RP), up above the crux on the third pitch. This is almost level with the bolt belay, but off a ways to the right (almost directly above the pitch three crux) and maybe down a bit. Watch out for the pitch 3 protection bolt, the nut works loose sometimes. The direct finish; let's settle for 5.8. It is about comparable with the righthand finish to Bastille Crack and definitely harder than anything else on The Bulge....

Just wanted to add that it is possible to lead the first three pitches in one 200' pitch. This is obviously easier with double ropes and long runners and not placing much pro and knowing where the route goes, but it works quite well. The "5.9" direct finish is about 5.7/8 with great pro.

On P3 after clipping the bolt that protects the crux (and the entire 40-50' pitch), step way left to a ledge while clutching a bomber undercling, then commit up and shift weight left moving right hand to a protruding stone, while reaching way high for a bomber heuco with the left hand. Balancey move. Move up 15' or so unprotected and work right to a ramp and another 20' of exposed runnout to the chains. Have fun and be careful on this one...

There is little I can add to all of the previous comments...yet I will say this climb is FABULOUS! It seems there are multiple lines on P1. I personally step off the ground by the tiny bush and then find myself working my way left, for good hands and feet, before heading straight up to the pin. Pulling the small bulge on P1 was always a challenge until I learned to just work my feet up and pull/mantle through it. (Honestly, I had to top rope it a few times before I got it).

P2 was quite fun too...I got a little confused after coming around the corner. I wasn't sure if the ramp was directly left (on the dark water marked stone) or up a couple feet and then left. I ended up going straight up a couple feet and then left only to find I ended up working my way back down to the ramp. Sure seemed easier that way.

It appears P3 should start left...don't get sucked this way...look up towards One O'clock and you will see a pin. I was glad my partner (Will) led P3 and gained greater hero status for doing so. Stepping left around the bulge is delicate but as others have said, the hands are there...you just gotta work your feet left and stay balanced. Seeing the #3 cam made me smile and would have been a blessing had I peeled off.

Don't skip the 5.9 crack finish. It is the easiet 5.9 I have ever climbed and you can always place a piece of gear above you as you work through it. I watched Will comfortably rest and place the gear before each move.

Great route, but be sure you're solid on 5.7! We took a pretty standard rack but only actually used the stoppers and two smallest Aliens (blue and green). Probably it is wise to take a few medium and larger cams, especially the #3 or #4 Camalot for pitch 3. I missed the #3 Camalot placement on p. 3 after the bolt, although I found a place for a #4 Camalot (which we didn't have). Needless to say, my second was not too happy to see the monster swing he would take at the crux, so he downclimbed a ways and then headed straight up about 10' left of the bolt. (considerably harder than the regular route but following the line of the rope).

Pitch 1 is actually not all that obvious. There is a left facing dihedral/corner about 50' off the deck, this is the feature to look for (also shown in Rossiter's topo). There are many ways to get to it, but I followed a left-sloping ramp to the left edge of a horizontal crack. You can get a small Alien in this crack. Then I moved up and left and then back to the right to the base of the corner, where you will find the pin. Instead of climbing the corner, crank up on some jugs right of it. 30 years ago, my partner had taken a 70' leader fall on this pitch, so be careful!

This is an amazing line and looks harder than 5.7 from afar.

The crux (by the bolt) is at least well protected. The first pitch also has some tricky moves on it.

Last time up this route, a couple weeks ago, I noticed a great placement to protect the second on P3. After the crux traverse moves, you move a ways left, and turn the small roof on jugs. Then you are on an easy slab--instead of heading immediately up and left to the belay, go up and right (which is easy), and sling a solid, if small horn, clip it with a long sling, and then go to the belay. Makes the moves perfectly safe for the second, the horn will not pull off with the rope movement, and you don't have to haul up a #4 Camalot. [This only works if you skip or backclean the gear placement at the small roof after the bolt (the climbing is not too hard there, but I certainly placed this piece my first time on the route... I skipped it last time). It will also work if you are using double ropes, which actually can be helpful on the entire route.]

Thanks to George for hauling my sorry ass up such a great climb. I think the crux is definitely a short man's move - I was really scrunched. I found I could either do the move without unclipping or chicken out after unclipping. I chose the latter and downclimbed to the belay (after unclipping) and then elimbing up and a little left to George's pro. Probably 5.9 or so. Now that I have time to think about it, the easiest way (short of having George find the camalot placement) would have been for me to lower him down from the anchor to unclip the piece after the traverse before I started up.

John

Fun with interesting route finding. Do the direct finish. I placed a 3.5 Camalot in a hueco at the start of the third pitch. Definitely a date climb.

A 3-star for me too. An eldo trad classic though I can see from the pic that I've done a few variations and never the exact direct finish. I think P1 goes pretty well any way you do it but have seen many have a problem with P2 the 1st time through here by thinking the traverse is higher up or more angled. Down climbing after the error can be tricky, feel runout and become 8+ rather quickly. Be sure to go immediately left after the lip and the chains will become apparent.

Did this route yesterday. The #3 Camalot on the traverse on the 3rd pitch is definitely there as a poster stated earlier. However, I think a #3.5 would be better suited as we got the #3 in but had to fiddle to find the best spot. Bring both to really sew it up.

I almost did what AC from 6.12 describes by trying to go straight up after the right traverse at the beginning of P2. If you just pause and look, you can clearly see the chain anchors once you get up on the face above the traverse. I couldn't find any pro from the traverse to the anchor, but got a smile later looking at photos of slings draped over the micro-horns on the 50ft. 5.4 runout ramp.

After doing the direct finish we wondered if we were on route or not. Looks like we were, but I have to say it was somewhat disapointing. Short, easy jugs. I guess you could jam fingers in it if you really wanted to. Quite fun, I guess, but don't expect much.

Of course it took us 10-15 mins to find the way down to the E slabs trail.

Yet another comment-- I was also lured above the obvious ramp on p2, and my feet stayed about 6 feet above it all the way to the belay. I didn't feel the need to downclimb, and found jugs all the way to the belay. This route is the juggiest i have yet climbed at Eldo-- huge holds everywhere.

I'd just like to point out, that at 7 a.m. on a mid-summer's day, the outline of the shadow of the Wind Ridge on the Redgarden wall nearly exactly outlines the line the Bulge takes. How weird is that?

To : Greg B Hill

In response to your reference to the Wind Tower shadow that parallels the Bulge. That is no coincedence. When Kor originally established the route he was trying to tan the left side of his body because he just got back from a road trip with Ament. He has been riding shotgun the entire road trip and sunburned the right side of himself. His FA of The Bulge was an attempt to even out his tan.

Tom:

Ya know, I heard something about that :) Didn't Kor also climb it facing out into the canyon so he could extend the use of his shoes by wearing out the heel rubber? In addition, that made sure that the right (I mean left of course) side of his body would get the tan, and also slowed him down from his notoriously fast pace just enough for the tan to take place at all? I think it's in one of the lost appendices to Climb Colorado...

Hi Greg,

Yes, I believe that is correct. Kor was was quite the phenom.

It is interesting that you should mention rock shoes and Kor. About fifteen years ago I was doing one of the variations to Anthill Direct (Chromium Shore or Semi-Wild) with a pal of mine.I was wearing those old Sportiva Monolo's. The Manolo's had a symetrical last and were supposed to be able to be worn on either foot. The marketing strategy was that once you blew out the inside toe, you could switch feet and have a fresh inside toe edge. The trouble was that once you had worn them for several weeks they took the shape of the foot they had been worn on, and it was like trying any other pair of shoes backwards. About two or three pitches up my feet hurt so bad that I had to bail. I was so ticked off that for the first time in my climbing career, I tossed the rap line without calling down "rope!" Guess who I hit in the head with the rope? Layton Kor. That was a very embarrasing way to meet the legend.

Just out of curiousity: has anyone tried to go straight up at the start of pitch 2 (instead of the right-left zigzag)?

Look for a nest of wasps on the traverse of the second pitch. You can go low to avoid them as they are in one of the first hand hold/cracks of the pitch. They stung my partner on lead, and when I came up, they buzzed out to check me out.

Fun climb with lots of history, as an early 5.7 leader in the 70s, the "bulge" move (about 2 or 3 moves) scared the bejeezus out of me.

What a great route for its rating. A must do!

Whew this thing is runout... but really fun!!! Reminds me of some really fun face climbs at Red Rocks. Make sure you're solid at the grade before getting on this thing. I was able to get 6 pieces (not including anchors) for the entire climb. The 5.9 is the softest I've climbed at Eldo. It's actually more like 5.7. Enjoy!!

My advice: don't fall.

Fun route. The straight-up P4 variation is the way to go, not remotely 5.9 but still fun. We climbed with doubles and that helped with rope drag and traverses.

Super fun summer evening climb as you are in the shade. Should probably feel comfortable soloing around 5.5 to lead this one. Also don't get sucked into missing the left trending traverse on pitch two by a second piton up and right. I climbed up to it and it is manky at best and then realized I was off and had to downclimb back to get on route. Easy to protect your second at the crux on pitch 3 with a number 4 cam. After the tricky business just look to your right for the obvious placement. You probably wouldn't be very happy following your leader without this placement. Competent seconds only.