To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
This is a really cool route and is also very safe. It is the next route over from Blackwalk. The difficulties start at the first bolt with a burly .11a/b move over a bulge. Very sustained climbing on a steep wall leads to the final crux, a hard move off a less than vertical greasy sloping rail.
Protection
This route is probably the best protected route on the Bulge Wall. Getting to the first bolt is a little hairy because of loose holds, a small cam might help here. The second bolt is a spinner if that bothers you.
I have only heard people calling this 11c/d. My own rating would be 11+, and I generally consider myself a sandbagger. I think 11a is quite a stretch for this one, compared to its neighbors to the right. The upper crux is thin, continuous and definitely harder than 11a. I understand the desire not to inflate routes (and egos), but it is possible to do the opposite and inflate your ego by calling this route a paltry 11a. My sermon back to you for the day.
I top-roped this about two months ago and remember it covered with aging lichen and dirty rock. However, it is well protected. Thin, difficult moves throughout. A sport climb not for the faint of heart.
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