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C'est La Morte 

5.9

   

FA: Duncan Ferguson and John Bragg, 1974.
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 160 feet
Views: 862 page views

Submitted By: Ben Schneider on Jan 1, 2001


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Finishing Flakes with the crux of C'est La Morte.....


Description 

Begin atop some boulders at the base of the prominent wall just a hundred meters north of the large cement slab by the river. Traverse up and left and then follow the easy climbing up to the anchors. 160 feet.


Protection 

RPs, standard rack.


Location 

This begins just right of C'est La Vie.



Add Photo Photos of C'est La Morte
The gear is tenuous on this 5.6 traverse until you get to the downward pointing flake where you can bury a #3 Camalot (or place any of a number of smaller pieces). The route cuts back hard right around the roof on the right to the same crux crack for The Flakes and Whistle Stop. Photo by Ivan Rezucha.

The gear is tenuous on this 5.6 traverse until you...


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 14, 2008
By Charles Vernon
From: El Paso, TX
Jan 1, 2001

The "easy" climbing goes something like this: after traversing up and left (along a sort of rock stratum, toward Cest la Vie), traverse back right under a small overhang, head up a thin, right leaning crux crack, and then traverse back left to the fixed anchor (near the right margin of the large Cest la Vie dihedral). Bring 2 ropes to rappel.

By John Keller
Aug 29, 2001

The anchors at the top of C'est La Morte and Whistle Stop (they end with the same upper part of the crack and left traverse) are set such that one 165ft rope will get you down... JUST BARELY... to the boulders leaning on the wall. Make sure the ends are even!

By flynn
Oct 17, 2002

Three stars might be a little generous, but it's still a pretty good route. I remember it having an appetite for small, springy things; in other words, TCUs are very helpful. In summer, too, it sports an active hive of small wasps that don't seem particularly aggressive, though they are numerous. Naturally, they're housed very near the crux. The comment about a 50m rope just reaching the 'ledge' is completely accurate. The ends of the rope come through your ATC (or whatever) just as your feet touch. Mind your balance!

By Ernie Port
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jul 2, 2003
rating: 5.9

Cool, exposed moves half way up, as you exit the lower face moving right and connecting with the upper crack. Same finish as Flakes. From the chains, 60m rope took us right to the start with rope to spare.

By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Jun 24, 2004
rating: 5.9

Remember to protect the second at the end of the climb, before the anchors. It'd be a pretty good swing. By that, of course, I mean a pretty BAD swing.

By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Oct 9, 2004
rating: 5.9

Fun climb. I didn't see the 'RP crack' that the guidebook mentioned. A bit cool in the shade, smokin' in the sunlight. This would be a fun winter route.

By Michael Amato
Jun 12, 2005

Devious route, but a lot of fun!

By Eric Goltz
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 27, 2005

Sweet route, at least as good as C'est la Vie (p1). Don't bother with gear until the undercling. I didn't find RPs necessary... the crack sews up with medium stoppers.

By Ivan Rezucha
Dec 29, 2005

A very good variation is to climb the variation left of The Flakes start (the right-angling ramp) to the left edge of the Flakes ledge and then step left to the base of the C'est la Morte crack (see Guy Humphrey's photo, but note that the 2nd and 3rd visible pieces of gear in that photo are on thumpy rock--I didn't use either of those). The rope runs straighter than either the regular C'est la Morte, The Flakes or the regular Flakes start to C'est la Morte. Gear is good. A #3 Camalot at the ledge with a double length sling protects the step left to the base of the C'est la Morte crack, and a #2 Camalot up and left will keep you there (at the base of the crack).

By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Mar 16, 2007

In Guy Humphrey's excellent photo, the climber has a piece attached to a long purple runner behind a "thumpy" flake (third piece from bottom of the photo). This flake is AWOL. The reach up into the crack is now a tad harder. Still felt like 5.9-ish, but this felt like the crux move of the pitch.

By mike r
From: longmont,CO
Apr 22, 2007
rating: 5.9 R

Great Climb! Questionable gear at the start, but it is only 5 or 6 so enjoy it!

By Dave Holliday
From: Louisville, CO
Feb 14, 2008

C'est La Ropedrag.