The Kloof Alcove is a short but very overhanging wall of nicely featured sandstone on the west side of the large gully leading up to the Yellow Spur etc. It faces due west and holds good shade until noon or one during the hotter months.
The routes here are steep and pumpy with little or no fixed protection. Though the routes often follow overhanging crack systems, the climbing takes place primarily on buckets and face holds. Fixed anchors at the top of the left side of the wall facilitate top-roping and lowering.
A new route, Iron Monkey (formerly known as Lycra Clad Donkeys), located here may be the most difficult route here in the Canyon.
Getting There
Approach as for the West Face of Redgarden Wall. About halfway to the base of Yellow Spur a signed trail branches left to the Kloof Alcove. Follow it.
Not really a one move wonder, buuuttttt. It has a burly set up with one fat reach at mid-height, then stays hard 11 all the way to the top. This a great route for the climber that's got that, "Been there, done that, 12d, kinda attitude". Definitely unique.If that's not good enough for ya, Chad Greedy has added a VERY sweet direct start to Superfly, tentatively called "Supah Dupah Fly", that kicks the whole thing to 13b or so.......[more]
The grade of 14a / 8a+ is correct, BUT...free name variation Iron Monkey was given by the 3rd? ascentionist who thought he was the first. First ascentionist?? (it IS an obvious line in Eldo) Raphael Daly named it Noir, after an anime series. I prefer to call it the original, Lycra Clad Donkeys (err...Asses).
It's beyond me why anyone would want to change a name as sweet as Lycra Clad Donkeys. Lycra Clad Monkeys might however be a suitable compromise. I just like the image.
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