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Wind Tower - SW Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Calypso D irect Start T 
Across The River From Butt Hair T 
Bomb, The T,TR 
Boulder Direct T 
Breezy T 
Calypso T 
Calypso Direct T 
Day 444 T 
Erickson's Wide Crack T 
G.Y. Dihedral, The T 
Governor's Climb, The T 
Hard-Up T 
I Did It My Way T,TR 
Jimmy Cliff T 
Left Out T 
Lemmings T 
My Own Way T,TR 
No, Do it My Way T 
Raisin Bran T 
Rastaman Roof T 
Recon T 
Reggae T 
Roofed Out T 
Salvation T 
Stagger T 
Tagger T 
Tigger T 
Tigger Plus T 
Variety T 
West Overhang T 
Wind Ridge T 
Wind Tower Slab T,TR 

Wind Tower - SW Face  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.9315, -105.283 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 343,468
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tony B on Jan 1, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: The Southwest face of the Wind Tower, showing the ...

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This popular rock can be divided in character into its south and southwest face. The SW face has some of the most frequently climbed routes in Eldorado Canyon and is probably the best area in Eldorado Canyon for those seeking lower end difficulty climbing. The rock is stellar for the first two pitches of climbs on this face. Above this the rock has seen less traffic and still has loose rock for the unsuspecting climber.

Famous climbers have been climbing this rock since the early 1950s. On occasion, you may find yourself face-to-face with a legendary climber soloing on by you as enjoy this rock.

Ultra-classics such as Calypso, 5.6 and Wind Ridge, 5.6 are great for beginners but often have long queues, please be patient. Pitch 3 of Wind Ridge has one of the most interesting roofs in all of Eldorado Canyon. Other good lines include Breezy, 5.4; The Bomb, 5.4; Boulder Direct, 5.5; the irascible Tigger, 5.5; Recon, 5.6; Reggae, 5.8; Wind Tower Slab, 5.9 TR; the slippery Tagger, 5.10b/c; and the impressive Salvation, 5.12a/b s.

Note, that according to Park statistics, Calypso is one of the most hazardous routes in the park, so protect it well.

Getting There 

The approach takes an arduous 5 min. from the parking lot. Take the bridge across S. Boulder Creek, then take the marked path up to the wall. Please stay on the path since it is well built to minimize erosion and rock slide.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.1 miles from here

32 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',7],['5.7',3],['5.8',10],['5.9',7],['5.10',4],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wind Tower - SW Face:
Breezy   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches   
Tigger   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches   
Calypso   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches   
West Overhang   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Tigger Plus   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Calypso Direct   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Reggae   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches   
Wind Ridge   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches   
Calypso Direct Start   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 20'   
Across The River From Butt Hair   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 2 pitches   
Rastaman Roof   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad   
I Did It My Way   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
Tagger   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Browse More Classics in Wind Tower - SW Face

Featured Route For Wind Tower - SW Face
About 2/3 up the pitch on October 16, 2002.

Reggae 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Wind Tower - SW Face
This is commonly rated 5.8, but the crux is short and it is not really any harder than The Bastille Crack. Start from the belay above the first pitch of Calypso. Step right a few feet, then head up the obvious dihedral. Finish over a tricky rock into a ledge with a large rock resting over it. You can continue to the summit or traverse the strata to the left to the walkoff of Wind Ridge. The easiest exit is to downclimb the ledge to the right, to two bolts to rappel.After ra...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Wind Tower - SW Face
Photos of Wind Tower - SW Face Slideshow Add Photo
Wind Tower descents.  You can walk off from the to...
BETA PHOTO: Wind Tower descents. You can walk off from the to...
Wind Tower, with climbers visible on P1 & P2 of Ca...
Wind Tower, with climbers visible on P1 & P2 of Ca...
Marie topping out on Recon.
Marie topping out on Recon.
Summit view looking toward upper Rotwand Wall.
Summit view looking toward upper Rotwand Wall.
Wind Tower (March, 2010).
Wind Tower (March, 2010).
SW Face of the Wind Tower from the top of the Whal...
BETA PHOTO: SW Face of the Wind Tower from the top of the Whal...

Comments on Wind Tower - SW Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By William McGehee
From: Choctaw, OK
Apr 11, 2003
Anybody happen to know what that easy little warm up slot to the right of The Bomb is??? I can't find beta on it anywhere. I'd give it a 5.3 or 5.4... Done it twice to just get warmed up and play around. Kinda fun, but short and easy. Set up the belay on the tiny evergreen to the right of the first Bomb rap. Last two times I did it I scooted climber left to Calypso's pins and rapped from there. Any info, let me know!!! Thanks.~WM
By Shawn Shannon
From: Everett, WA
Apr 28, 2003
GET THE BETA ON YOUR DECENT ROUTE or it's just a pain in the ass.

If you climb to the top of Wind Tower instead of taking the exit trail, do yourself a favor and take the time to get the beta on the decent (repell bolts) for your route!! We went half-hearted to the top thinking we'll just find our way down when we get there, everyone had told us that "they're there." We didn't immediately find a way down and thought we'd cruise down the slabs. It took us longer to get down than up. We did one repel plus a mini one. We didn't feel as bad about it after we noticed quite a few sets of slings littering the trees. :)
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From: Seattle, WA
Apr 29, 2003
In that case.... after topping out on the wind tower, travel north for approximately 200 yards from the summit point. Travel is typically easiest on the E side of the ridge within ~50 yards of the ridgeline (it varies). Get to an obvious rotton notch that's about 10-15 feet wide. The bolts face north, are in this notch, and are set up to allow a good rappell back down to the visible descent trail 60 feet below.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 12, 2004
I usually abhor such crowded routes and have gotten back to the Flatirons after years of Eldo but who doesn't love this one? At one time this was said to be the most travelled route in the state. Can anyone comment that it still is?
By Luis Barandiaran
From: Longmont, CO
Jul 16, 2005
We did the three pitches up Wind Ridge today... the third pitch is definitely worth doing. Roof feels like 5.6. Jug city after that. From the summit, the best to do for [descent] is to downclimb towards the north until you run across a thick old cable strung across the slabs. This runs for 40 or 50 feet. From there, don't head straight up the notch, but continue 20 feet or so to the next one. On the West facing side there's two [vertically] stacked rappel bolts. It's an easy single rope rappel to the decent trail. Enjoy... I sure did!
By Gregger Man
Nov 15, 2013
ACE: Rap bolt upgrade occurred on 11/15/2013.
Removed a 3/8" x 2.5" plated Rawl with Metolius Fat hanger.
Installed a 1/2" x 4.5" SS Rawl with SS double ring hanger.
(The second bolt was already a SS glue-in.)