BETA PHOTO: Routes on the far left side of Animal World.
Crac...
Description
Three people on the first ascent, and three crux sections...a triple play. Varied, interesting climbing all the way up.
Climb straight up a narrowing crack to a slot. Work up the slot and step left to a ledge. Climb a short left-facing corner and crank up right to a slab. Continue to an overhang, climb up left onto a pedestal, and surmount the overhang. Continue more easily to the anchor.
A harder variation (10d?) turns the overhang a bit more to the right.
Location
Start at a hand crack between Crack Corner and Animal Riots Activist, at the left side of Animal World. These are the first routes you see when you approach the crag.
Protection
3 or 4 cams from 1/4" to 2", then 4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks. We used a #2 Camalot, #1 Camalot, green Alien, and red Alien on the first ascent.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO May 21, 2009 rating: 5.9
How do you rate it? Well, the climb is a step off of a 5.7 much of the way, and I could force the line right for hard moves (probably 5.11) or stem back and left for rest (far easier). By staying more or less on route as I could figure it and choosing the most interesting yet solid climbing up without getting silly eliminating holds and stems, the grade I checked in at was probably 5.9.
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