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The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
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It's Time For Change 
Night Moves 
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Where's Ray? 

Night Moves 

5.7

   

FA: Ron Olsen, Bill Henson, Gillian Collins, 11/26/08
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 616 page views

Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Nov 27, 2008


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

Night Moves is a short but fun mixed route that starts at the same place as Diamonds and Rust, on a big shelf about 20' left of Heterohedral and 10' right of Edge of Reality.

Step up and clip a bolt on the left. Climb straight up a right-facing corner. A yellow Alien can be placed in an undercling between the second and third bolts. Mantel onto a big ledge on the left, and continue up the face to the anchor. A green Camalot can be placed to protect the final move to the anchor.


Location 

The route starts on a big shelf about 20' left of Heterohedral and 10' right of Edge of Reality. This is the same start as for It's Time for Change and Diamonds and Rust.

To get there from the main Bihedral area, traverse left on the narrow exposed ledge past Dan's Line and Group Therapy. Be very careful. Not a good approach for kids or pets. A safer approach can be made by coming up from the Left Side area, but this is a long way from the main Bihedral area.

An anchor has been installed on the right side of the shelf, so you can do a diagonal rappel back to the main Bihedral area instead of reversing the exposed traverse; see ??.


Protection 

5 bolts plus a yellow Alien and green #0.75 Camalot. 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks.



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By Tony B
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 27, 2008

Hmm.. Seger fan?
For whatever reason the nostalgic and fancy-free tone of that song always reminded me of climbing too. Perhaps it's just the recall of youth....

------------------------------
We weren't in love, oh no, far from it
We weren't searching for some pie in the sky summit
We were just young and restless and bored, living by the sword
And we'd steal away every chance we could
To the backroom, to the alley or the trusty woods
I used her, she used me, but neither one cared
We were getting our share, working on our night moves
Trying to lose the awkward teenage blues
Working on our night moves, and it was summertime

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 24, 2009

The mantle move is kind of tricky. The yellow Alien is nice here for peace of mind.