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Berlin Wall
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Walpurgisnacht 

5.11-

   

FA: Dan Hare, Michael Gilbert
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Season: spring, summer, fall
Views: 174 page views

Submitted By: msamet on Aug 28, 2008


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Description 

This is the leftmost route on Berlin Wall, starting on black rock just right of the gully/crack. Rossiter's book shows it as only having one bolt, but there are four (maybe some were added later, though all the hardware looks old). Multiple tricky cruxes, balancey, and technical.

You'll encounter a long runout above the last bolt (we only TR'ed it, but it looks spicy) -- though you could clip the last bolt on Dachau for further protection up high.

Perfect rock, though the top is quite licheny and needs traffic/brushing. A great pitch. Four bolts to ring-and-chain anchors up over the ledge. Not exactly easy for the grade.


Location 

Far left side of the Berlin Wall, just right of the corner/gully.


Protection 

Quickdraws.



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By msamet
Aug 28, 2008

I and Dan Levison added Anchor Replacement Initiative anchors (stainless-steel ring-and-chain) to this route, up over the ledge. It's now possible to come down the gully between Berlin Wall and Krishna onto this ledge and easily access these anchors, to rappel in.

60-meter rope makes it for sure; I don't know if a 50 will or not. You can leave a rope up through these to TR out at the end of the day, and avoid the long walk-around south of Wall of Winter Warmth.

By Dan Levison
From: Boulder
Sep 5, 2008

I rebolted this route today replacing the old, rusted hardware with modern hardware (Hilti SS KB 3s and Metolius SS hangers). This route is now the primary warm-up on the wall. Thanks to Roy Barnes for his assistance with the bolt removal and patching.