Warlock Pinchers 

FA:  Matt Samet, Kristin Bjornsen New Route:  Yes Type:  Sport, TR Consensus:  5.12a [details] Length:  1 pitch, 42 feet Season:  Spring, summer, fall Views: 102 page views Submitted By: msamet on Jul 20, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Warlock Pinchers, with draws on it.

Description 

Direct (right) start to Magie Noire, with four bolts, joining Magie Noire over the lip of the prow/jutting roof feature. This is the eighth route in from the left, or second from the right.

I put the first bolt so you can stand on the ground and clip it to protect the opening moves. Use this, or use it to auger up and pre-clip the second, or skip this and just clip the second. Choose your own adventure...

Boulder, shouldery, on nice blue-and-black rock reminiscent of the Winchester Cave at Rifle.

Location 

Right side of the Stepping Stones sport crag.

Protection 

7 bolts plus two-bolt anchors.