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Stepping Stones
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Unknown variation 
Warlock Pinchers 

Warlock Pinchers 

5.12a

   

FA: Matt Samet, Kristin Bjornsen
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 42 feet
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Views: 102 page views

Submitted By: msamet on Jul 20, 2008


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Warlock Pinchers, with draws on it.


Description 

Direct (right) start to Magie Noire, with four bolts, joining Magie Noire over the lip of the prow/jutting roof feature. This is the eighth route in from the left, or second from the right.

I put the first bolt so you can stand on the ground and clip it to protect the opening moves. Use this, or use it to auger up and pre-clip the second, or skip this and just clip the second. Choose your own adventure...

Boulder, shouldery, on nice blue-and-black rock reminiscent of the Winchester Cave at Rifle.


Location 

Right side of the Stepping Stones sport crag.


Protection 

7 bolts plus two-bolt anchors.