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Turkey Neck Direct 

5.11+

   

FA: Matt Samet, Kristin Bjornsen
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.11+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Views: 195 page views

Submitted By: Chris Beh on Jul 20, 2008


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Turkey Neck Direct 

This climb is one route left of El Gallito. Alternately, it's the fourth route in from the left. Climb past four bolts in the nice, white, calcified rock to the base of the big, stair-stepped roof. Three bolts and some tricky cruxes get you past the various lips. I put the fifth and sixth bolts close together so you wouldn't come slamming into the vert wall under the roof. Both are clippable on lead.

This had anchors up top but didn't seem to have seen any action -- thanks, whoever put the anchors in.

You **can** climb a bit right of the sixth bolt through that crux, onto the "guano block." Come back left to finish, on the "turkey neck." You can also go direct with good Beta.

A good, pumpy route at the grade; 7 bolts.


Protection 

Bolts.