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Witches' Tower
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It's My Swamp 
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No Direction Home 
Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad)) 
Romancing the Stone 
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Tese 
Tipskin Jihad 
War is Love 

Tipskin Jihad 

5.12

   

FA: Matt Samet, Kristin Bjornsen, Rolo Garibotti, Bob D'Antonio
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 45 feet
Season: Summer is nice
Views: 384 page views

Submitted By: msamet on Jun 19, 2008


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Terrorized tips after a burn on the route.


Description 

This is the second route in from the right (so, third from the left) on the north face of Witches' Tower. It climbs directly out the wall above the Vee between the two big blocks, to join the anchors on Teenage Terrorists. Sustained and bouldery down low to mellower climbing up high.


Location 

Center of the north face of Witches' Tower.


Protection 

Five bolts -- either stick-clip, or pre-clip the first bolt on the way down from one of the other routes. (Good Beta: warm up your fingers on War is Love, the 11c/d just left, then pre-rig this one on the way down.)



Add Photo Photos of Tipskin Jihad
Rolo G on the face moves above the crux, Bob D on belay.

Rolo G on the face moves above the crux, Bob D on ...

Matt...making it look casual. Those are not big holds he is cranking on!<br /><br />

Matt...making it look casual. Those are not big ho...

Matt in the middle of the business. <br /><br />D'Antonio Collection.

Matt in the middle of the business.

D'Antonio Co...



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By msamet
Jun 19, 2008

There are two bolts at the 4th clip -- the one on the left (3/8") wouldn't tigthen (or loosen), so if anyone is up there with a prybar, you might be able to get it out by weighting the bolt (on toprope!) and prying behind it while you unscrew.

If not, I will be back soon to fix -- sorry for the eyesore.