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The Garden
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B Boys, The 
Before The Deluge 
Border Crossing 
Crackdown 
Dutch Treat 
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Just Do It 
Showtime 
Smooth Operator 
Storm Warning 

Showtime 

5.8+

   

FA: Ron Olsen, Bruno Haché, and Nickie Kelly, 7/26/07
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.8+ [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 190 feet
Views: 1,080 page views

Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Sep 20, 2007


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BETA PHOTO: Showtime (yellow) and variations (green).


Description 

Showtime climbs the left side of the prominent pinnacle on the north face of Tonnere Tower. It is a great pitch, with face, cracks and exposed arete climbing on solid rock. Excellent position, exposure, and a treat for the tourists at Boulder Falls. Don't miss this pitch on your visit to The Garden!

P1: Start by climbing Fine Fir, Before The Deluge, or Crackdown to their common anchor, on a pedestal about 65' up.

P2: (Showtime): Start up the gully right of the anchor, place a green Camalot, and move right onto the wall. Climb up to a bulge, clip a bolt, and climb up and right onto the arete. Climb hand cracks to an alcove.

From here, the best climbing line stays to the left as much as possible. Other variations can be done more to the right.

Step left and climb a crux hand crack (8+) to an intermediate 2-bolt rap anchor at 60'. The hand crack can be bypassed by climbing the wide slot to the right. Clip the anchor, but do not stop here to belay. Instead, continue up to a stance. Step left and climb a hand crack onto the arete. (You could also climb wide cracks to the right, but the hand crack is more fun). Continue up the arete to to the top of the pinnacle and a two-bolt anchor. 5.8+, 125'.

Wave at the tourists at Boulder Falls who were entertained by your ascent!

Descent: Rappel 95' down to the anchor on The B Boys, then rappel 100' down to a gully above the start of Local Hero. Do an easy 20' downclimb to the bottom of the gully. Take a path to the left to get back to The Garden.

You can also rappel the route in 3 rappels, using the intermediate anchor halfway up the second pitch.


Location 

The Garden area. Showtime climbs the left side of the pinnacle on the north face.

Route #24 in the beta photo.


Protection 

P2: 1 bolt and gear to a #2 Camalot. Doubles from red Alien to #2 Camalot are useful. 2-bolt anchor at the top. 2-bolt intermediate rap station midway on the pitch.



Add Photo Photos of Showtime
Selected routes on the north face of Tonnere Tower:<br /><br />Treasure Wall:<br /><br />14. Buried Treasure, 9, sport.<br />16. The Twilight Kid, 11, sport.<br />17. Fields of Gold, 10a, mixed.<br /><br />The Garden:<br /><br />19. Just Do It, 8, mixed.<br />20. Fine Fir, 7, mixed.<br />21. Storm Warning, 10a, toprope.<br />22. Before The Deluge, 10a, sport.<br />23. Crackdown, 9, mixed.<br />24. Showtime, 8+, mixed.<br />25. Dutch Treat, 8, mixed.<br />26. Border Crossing, 8, mixed.<br />27. The B Boys, 10+, mixed.<br />28. Smooth Operator, 11+, mixed.<br /><br />Creekside:<br /><br />29. Curtain Call, 8+, mixed.<br />30. Local Hero, 10a, mixed.

BETA PHOTO: Selected routes on the north face of Tonnere Tower...

Climbers on Showtime. The belayer is at the intermediate anchor halfway up the pinnacle. It's possible (and recommended) to climb the route all the way to the top of the pinnacle without stopping at this intermediate anchor. <br /><br />You can use this anchor on the way down as a rappel station if you have only one rope.<br /><br />The leader is heading for the wide cracks on the right; a nicer line takes the hand crack to the left, onto the prow of the arete.

Climbers on Showtime. The belayer is at the inter...

Marga Powell enjoying the exposed climbing and solid rock on Showtime.

Marga Powell enjoying the exposed climbing and sol...

Bob D'Antonio moving up past the bolt at the start of Showtime.<br /><br />This start is also used by Dutch Treat and Border Crossing.

Bob D'Antonio moving up past the bolt at the start...

Bob D'Antonio working up the first of several hand cracks on Showtime.

Bob D'Antonio working up the first of several hand...

Bruno Haché on the first ascent of Showtime.

Bruno Haché on the first ascent of Showtime.

Michael Main climbing up the exposed arete.

Michael Main climbing up the exposed arete.

Routes on the pinnacle on the north face.

BETA PHOTO: Routes on the pinnacle on the north face.


Add Comment Comments on Showtime
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By percious
From: Arvada, CO
May 15, 2008
rating: 5.8

We didn't realize about the intermediate rap anchor when we descended this beauty of a climb in the dark.... a 70 meter rope will get you down the the next anchor though... Too bad we only had a 60, and were forced to leave some gear on the tree above the first belay station. Solid 5.8 with some interesting crack climbing. Interesting position once you pull though the crux. This climb is better done when it is still light out.