By Tony B From: Boulder, CO May 18, 2008 rating: 5.10+
| A great climb with some crums near the bottom, but great rock the rest of the way.
You can traverse in from the right, past the starting flake on 'Talking Out Of Turn and establish a belay on a few stoppers at the base of this climb.
Carry a rack of nuts, a run of small cams (to 0.75") and a 2-2.5" cam. The crux is getting the feet over the lip on a rounded finger-lock above a good nut (maybe a #5 BD stopper or equiv?) For people with small fingers like mine, the top is not difficult at all, but still needs pro. Doubles in thin fingers cam-size (first-second knuckle) will be useful if you like lots of gear, but are not required.
If this thing continued another 50', it would be a 4-star classic. Sadly, it is a short line. |