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Isn't Life Strange 

5.11c

   

FA: Bob D, Vaino Kodas and Greg Hand
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11 [details]
Length: 105 feet
Views: 739 page views

Submitted By: Bob D'Antonio on Feb 22, 2008


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Vanio cruising towards the roofs.


Description 

Great technical climbing on small edges and sharp in-cuts. The obvious green and gold face above Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello and just left of a right facing corner (5.7). Take fourteen draws if you are going to do the route in one pitch.

This a very classic route and the upper section is just wild climbing up and over a series of overhangs to a traverse that gets you on the upper headwall.

Climb up the steep thin face making cool, thoughtful moves (5.10c/d) to the first anchor. Belay or continue up and right through the tier overhangs the upper headwall. Climb the headwall past three bolts to the anchor.

Be careful lowering and put a knot in the other end of the rope.

Great route that will get better with more ascents.


Location 

On a large ledge above Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello near a large, dead pine tree.


Protection 

Six clips to first anchor...twelve to the second anchor.



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Vanio in the thick of it.

Vanio in the thick of it.


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By kevin murphy
Mar 3, 2008

Nice route, Bob. Hard to read, one of the better for the grade in Bo Can., how's about a pitch 2?

By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Mar 3, 2008

Kevin,
We were at the top starting pitch 2 a few days ago but had a battery problem. It will be done soon.

By Bob D'Antonio
From: Superior, CO
Mar 11, 2008

Kevin...we just added a second pitch...pretty wild climbing through the overhangs. Somewhere in the 11d range. We left some gear (draws) on the upper pitch and haven't finished it yet. Still need some cleaning. Should be done by the weekend.

This really good route just got better.

By kevin murphy
Mar 12, 2008

Nice work Bob, maybe head up there Sat. a.m? How's the crack on the left side of face, looks hard, 5.10?

By Bob D'Antonio
From: Superior, CO
Apr 4, 2008

The upper pitch is complete and the route was led in one very classic pitch thanks to Vanio Kodas, Greg Hand and Bob D. You need fourteen draws to the reach the upper anchor if doing it in one pitch. The upper section past the first belay is beautiful climbing up a series of small overhang to a wild traverse to the upper headwall.

By Chris Cavallaro
Apr 12, 2008

Cool route! Upper section is better than the lower. Watch the death block after the first bolt past the lower anchors.

By Brad Schildt
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 24, 2008
rating: 5.11

Great exposure, varied moves, well-protected - overall an excellent route. Thank you Bob, Vaino and Greg.