BETA PHOTO: Flash Dihedral (Knapp Version) on the First Elepha...
Description
This is the route Flash Dihedral as shown in the topo in Knapp's guidebook. I am not sure if this is the line referred to as an "obvious dihedral" in Rossiter's guide. See the other entry for Flash Dihedral for what is likely the 5.8+ done by Ament et al.
Regardless, I really enjoyed this pitch. I liked it better than some of the other "classic" moderates on the Elephant Buttresses. It has clean rock, good fingerlocks, and solid gear. It's a worthy route and deserves its own entry.
Begin about 40' uphill from the toe of the First Elephant Buttress just left of an unstable looking, keg-sized boulder. Climb up about 10' of mungy rock to gain the clean double crack system that continues up the west corner of the buttress to the summit.
The crux comes about halfway up negotiating a triangular block and felt easier than the given rating of 5.8+ to me.
Location
This route is located on the west corner of the First Elephant Buttress. Approach via the standard trail and hike about 40' up the gully on the west side of the buttress. Descend by hiking north to meet the same gully and descend it back to your packs.
Protection
Standard rack to 3". Trees and boulders at the summit for top rope anchors.
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By kevinnlong From: Boulder, CO May 24, 2008 rating: 5.5
This is a decent route, and I would recommend it as an excellent beginner trad lead. There are pro opportunities everywhere and the length is good for a first lead. The climbing felt like 5.5 or less to me.
A pink (0.5" I think) Camp tri-cam works perfectly at the horizontal crack at the crux in the middle of the route.
IMHO the standard route on the third buttress or the Owl/Cozyhang or even East Slab are substantially more fun in the area.
By Phil Lauffen From: Colorado Springs, CO Aug 24, 2008 rating: 5.6
This felt really easy. I would rate it 5.6 at the most, maybe 5.5... I had to go back and do it straight up all the slabs without using the big cracks (on TR) to make it feel like a 5.8
By percious From: Arvada, CO Sep 25, 2008 rating: 5.5
Very surprised by the 5.7 rating of this climb. No harder than 5.5 IMO. I have done harder 5.4s at the Gunks!
First Buttress
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