This is the route between the Fapanese Direct and The Devil, up the right margin of the Earth Angel headwall. It starts off twin seams above the small ledge left of The Devil, goes over a small roof (you may share a fingerlock or two with The Devil), then trends left into the hanging corner, with a crux getting around the arete. You have big-air potential at the crux -- wild slap moves -- but nowhere to stop to clip. However, you can get up the Fapanese Direct pretty easily and drop a toprope, if it's getting wiggy.
Above the crux, stay left to climb the flared crack/pods, ending at the chains below the big block. The first lead stayed on the mossy right side of the arete to finish, but it's very dirty over there and probably won't clean up much.
Matt, thanks for posting the info on these two rtes. I was up @ Avalon today and was wondering what the new lines were. This one in particular looks really nice. Thanks for your time and effort to put them up. BA
No worries. I was up there today and my buddy onsighted the route, staying a bit right in three spots of the way we did some sequences. I think, if people do this one, they should take a wire brush to clean the grips out right -- it's the path of least resistance and makes sense, and probably drops the grade a little from what we originally thought.
Also, first two bolts are just clippable (a bit hairy) from the deck, but also sort of set up to either stick-clip the first and up to second, to protect the boulder-problem intro, or more user-friendly if you drop draws on before starting up on lead.
I wanted to thank Mark R (pretty sure) for adding the bolt back in at the crux and for adding a separate set of anchors, right of the Fapanese Direct chains.
I think most people are going right at the crux now, but the new bolt looks like it will let you tackle the arete from either side. This route should be safer and easier to lead now, and looks to be cleaning up.
Tarot Wall
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