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Boulder Quartz System 
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Tooth and Nail 

Boulder Quartz System 

5.12a

   

FA: Vaino Kodas & Bob D'Antonio
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11d [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 890 page views

Submitted By: Bob D'Antonio on Jan 6, 2002


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Tony leading Boulder Quartz System.


Description 

Start twenty-five feet right of Lucid Dreaming on the Plotinus Wall at a overhanging quartz-filled corner.

This is the Boulder Quartz System. Clip the first bolt and climb up nice moves on large quartz holds. After the the fifth bolt make hard moves up and right into a overhanging corner.

Strenuous moves leads to the anchor.

Classic!


Protection 

Eight bolts to a two-bolt anchor.



Add Photo Photos of Boulder Quartz System
mid crux

mid crux

Plotinus Wall, right side

BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, right side

Plotinus Wall, middle.

BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, middle.


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By Dougald MacDonald
Jul 10, 2003

I'm surprised this route doesn't get more raves. I thought it was excellent! The diagonal traverse up the quartz dike is unique in the canyon, and the crux is very interesting. Hint: It seemed easier to me to start the crux up and right, then move back left.

By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 21, 2003
rating: 5.11d

Good climb. As Dougald said, this climb seems to be unique in the area. I've personally never climbed anything like it. nickle to fist-sized chunks of quartz litter the ground below, and the system in and of itself is going through a diagonal swath of quartz 6 feet wide. Somewhat of a surprise that the miners didin't get into that years ago, as quartz bands are usually co-located with sought-after minerals and metals...
A few small quartz flakes blew out under my feet, and under the feet of Peter, who followed it. Nothing large or dangerous, and nothing that caused a fall. The climb is still cleaning up and it will take some time, but the significant holds are pretty solid already. That said, the route is fun. The crux comes when you step out of the quartz onto the granite underclings, then up and over. The feet are hard to find and the moves extended enough to be a gut-buster. The 'crux move' is a "a hold must have broke off" move now, although that made the climb easier, not harder. On my ascent I tried to pinch a little flake under the sloping undercling -- it moved significantly (nice fall produced). I went back up to it and removed it completely with a simple pull. The crux hold is actually now more secure/square.

I have to give it an extra star for the overall oddity. The moves alone are 3-star, but the climb goes into a bonus round for the rock.

Easier now that the crux hold changed.

By Joe Collins
Sep 11, 2003
rating: 5.11d

An instant classic!

By Kirk Woerner
Nov 15, 2004

I found the clip right after getting out of the quartz to be really difficult and tenuous. Maybe I was clipping from the wrong stance, but it just seemed like there was one good edge off to the left you use to get out of the crack, and then a dicey stance to clip from... It'll go soon (I hate having to always say that :)

By Chris Archer
Jun 6, 2005
rating: 5.12a

Thoughtful and pumpy climbing up a unique geologic feature.

By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 2, 2007
rating: 5.11b/c

Wow! What a cool feature! Felt more like mid 11 than 12a. All very easy climbing to a couple 5.11 moves. This felt miles easier than other 12a classics like Grand Inquisitor and Arms Bazaar.

By Nick Weinstock
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 19, 2008

What can I say... A Boulder Canyon personal classic. Great moves over a beautiful stream in a nice setting - what more could a bolt clipper ask for. Bah. Started climbing at Lower Dream last year and always wanted to get the Quartz System without falling. Today was the day.

By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
May 29, 2008
rating: 5.12a

Finally a repoint!!! Couldn't even do the moves last fall.

One guy in our party knocked some very large crystals down, so be careful here belaying or sitting under someone climbing.

For me, this is 5.9/5.10 climbing to a long, "The Spot Bouldering Gym" like problem. Powerful, fun climbing. All the falls at the crux are clean...believe me I've tested them all.