1 - Is It Ready Yet ... Moe 2 - We Don't Do Crack ...
Description
The start is the crux and coming out of the upper corner. Clip the first bolt and go left to the arete (crux) and then up the face (loose) to the second bolt...clip the third bolt and then fire up the nice face to the anchor.
Really good route that will get better with more ascents.
Location
About a 125 feet right of Free Willie at a the right end of a long, low overhang.
By Paul Hunnicutt From: Boulder, CO Mar 20, 2008 rating: 5.9+
Does this route start on a black face, at a dihedral that could be lead on gear? I placed cams past the first two bolts - though a bush, dirt, and loose rock wasn't all that inspiring (I'm not posting some anti-bolt tirade just clarifying location). The upper section was pretty lichen covered, but with more traffic would be a nice addition to the crag - since there aren't many mid range climbs here.
By Paul Hunnicutt From: Boulder, CO Mar 20, 2008 rating: 5.9+
Wrong way??? Well someone forgot to put tape on the holds so I had to be inventive.
I think you could climb either the face or crack as they are only a few feet apart at the start. Though if you climb the crack you'll want to protect it with gear - the bolts are too far out left to be that useful for protection (until the third bolt)
The crack seemed pretty obvious to me and doing it that way felt 5.9+ overall. Perhaps just 5.9 once the lichen wears away. I didn't do the bolted face start so can't comment on it's grade.
Still some loose rock on this one so keep your belayer aware.
By Paul Hunnicutt From: Boulder, CO Mar 21, 2008 rating: 5.9+
Hey I was just asking originally so I could post the photo of the start for everyone...found the description a bit vague and it isn't in any guidebook yet. I wanted to make sure if I was commenting at all I was on the correct route in the database. I was asking for the sake of the next person looking at the site for a nice moderate to climb at Animal World.
IMHO, I'd say this route has two starts...one up a dirty crack...and one a somewhat contrived (but perhaps fun nonetheless) up a face past two bolts to avoid the dirty crack. They both end up at the third bolt. The natural line is up the crack, but since you have bolts to protect the moves out left people can try that also. There is no "wrong way" upwards.
The crack start would also be fun cleaned up a bit.