Mike Amato at the bulging headwall on the first le...
Description
Puff Daddy climbs the bulging headwall above Hold The Line and Dan's Line. It can be done as a second pitch after either of these routes. The climbing looks steep and improbable, but edges and holds appear just where you need them. Well bolted in the hard sections so there's a minimal fear factor.
Climb Hold The Line (5.9) and belay at the anchor at 100'. Alternatively, climb Dan's Line (5.8) and belay at the higher anchor at 110'. This anchor is about 20' left and 10' higher than the anchor on Hold The Line.
From Hold The Line, climb up and left on easy rock. You can place a red Alien or purple Camalot in a crack about 10' above the belay. Continue to a horizontal crack, where you can place another red Alien or purple Camalot. Step up and clip the first bolt. This is about 25' above the belay, but the climbing is easy.
From Dan's Line, climb straight up easy rock to the horizontal crack, place a red Alien or purple Camalot if desired, and step up and clip the first bolt.
Continue up the headwall, which gets harder the higher you go, to a bulging section at the sixth bolt. Work up on thin holds (crux), hang in and make the seventh clip, and continue up past one more bolt to the anchor. Lower back down and let your partner have a shot at it. If you want to belay from the top, continue up and right about 15' to a higher anchor on a ledge. From this higher anchor, rap back down to the anchor atop Hold The Line.
From the anchor on Hold The Line, you can rappel back to the ground with a 60m rope. From the anchor on Dan's Line, you can rappel to the ground with a 70m rope, or to an easy downclimb with a 60m rope.
8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks. Optional red Aliens/purple Camalots can be placed before the first bolt. Lower or rappel with a 60m rope, then do another rappel to the ground. There is a higher anchor, above and right of the lowering anchor, if you want to belay from the top.
Puff Daddy was a great climb. Started by leading Dan's Line, used the higher anchor, then continued up Puff Daddy. Well-placed bolts and didn't feel any need for additional pro. Thanks Ron and Mike for your work on this. It was clean enough to enjoy. Rappeled down to the anchor for Hold the Line (using a 60m rope) which seemed the smoothest and fastest way down.
Nice addition to the area. 5.8 climbing from the start until the last 20 feet, when it steepens and the holds get much smaller. Lichen is mostly removed where you don't want it. The upper section very well protected, the lower section is bordering on excessive.
By Chris O'Connor From: Boulder, Co Sep 4, 2007 rating: 5.10a
This is a fun line, although a little over bolted at the top. I would recommended linking this pitch with the 5.9 or 5.10 below for a full value 185ft lead.
This felt significantly easier than P1 of Flags of Our Father. The top, although steep, had obvious climbing with mostly very positive hand holds, although some are small.
The Bihedral
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