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Bolt Cola 

5.10a

   

FA: Ken & Marsha Trout, ~1994
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 514 page views

Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001


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BETA PHOTO: Get Shorty and Bolt Cola


Description 

Well protected, possibly over-bolted route, but good quality nevertheless. This is the first pitch of Astrophysics. Some neat balancy mantels are the crux (I guess). The route seems more like 9. Pull the roof on the right side and look for the last bolt just over the lip.


Protection 

8 QDs to a 2-bolt anchor. The last 20 ft. are runout 5.6, where a cam could be placed, but quite easy.



Add Photo Photos of Bolt Cola
2. Simmer<br />3. Bolt Cola

BETA PHOTO: 2. Simmer
3. Bolt Cola


Move into the shallow left facing corner before stepping right onto the steep crux face.<br /><br />Photo by Paul Rezucha.

Move into the shallow left facing corner before st...

On the steeper crux section. Gorgeous (to look at but not climb) lichen above.<br /><br />Photo by Paul Rezucha.

On the steeper crux section. Gorgeous (to look at ...


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By Anonymous Coward
Jan 1, 2001

You might want to take a couple of medium sized pieces for the 20-25 foot stretch to the anchor. By the way what does overbolted actually mean?

By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Jan 1, 2001

To the "overbolted" comment, I mean that most of the route can be protected with stoppers and cams. There are only a few sections where placing gear would be difficult/runout. This applies to Simmer as well.

By Andy Moore
Sep 28, 2001

I've led this route without using the bolts, and there is only one place where I felt the pro was not great, and that was up high, under the roof, just before you get to easier ground (and good pro again). There was a so-so small cam placement below the roof, but the rock wasn't so great around the cams, and I didn't really want to test it.

By pete cogan
Aug 4, 2002

Variation of Fear: Not knowing where (Read: if) that bolt was on the R side of the roof, I went left and protected the flake/crack with a couple of stoppers. You can then head left to the other set of bolted anchors, or proceed R to the intended anchors.

By Ken Trout
Aug 13, 2003
rating: 5.10a

After getting reacquainted with real 5.9 face climbing out in Toulumne this year, I wonder if my toes were out of tune when we rated Bolt Cola. But, if Ken Cangi is suggesting 5.10b, I'm all for it. Close bolts really make things feel easier to me. My purpose was to just have a good warm-up for Jolt nearby, instead of having to roll the dice on Hike with Ludwig Dude.

By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Aug 13, 2003
rating: 5.9

Actually more like 1 1/2 * ; good , but really outstanding.

[Definitely] over-rated at 5.10 and would probably go at 5.8 in Shelf.

There is a bit of a run-out to the anchors (but it is pretty easy), a couple of 3/4" to 1" cams would help steady down a leader used to an "over-bolted" routes.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 12, 2004
rating: 5.10a

This is the easiest route in this area to identify because you start by stepping off a spike of rock. You can't see the last bolt from the 6th bolt (at least we didn't), so without this knowledge we "bailed" left, where you can get some gear in. After placing another small cam you can wander up and right to the chains (looks tricky but is not), or head left for the anchor on "Shimmer".

Down low, there are several ways to get between the bolts so it's kind of hard to rate. No way is this route 5.8, though!

By Michael Amato
Oct 21, 2004

A number of fun moves, well protected with bolts until after the roof, then some runout, but on relatively easy ground.

By Ken Cangi
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 15, 2007
rating: 5.10a

This is a fun route. It felt like the crux was moving past the 3rd bolt. When you get to the overlap (5th bolt), where you can't see the next bolt, stay low and traverse right about ten feet, and then the bolt will come into plain view. It is the last bolt until the anchors, but the climbing above is very easy - 5.6 or so. You could also place gear behind the lieback flake if you're not comfortable running it out twenty feet on easy ground. I was not having a particularly bold day, and the runout didn't concern me at all.

By Gary Schmidt
Nov 20, 2007

Thought this was a fun route and does have some thoughtful 5.10ish moves. But not knowing where the next bolt was at the roof I headed left thinking I could protect the crack with a cam. The placement looked a little marginal, but I went for it anyways. I slipped, the piece pulled, and I went quite a ways. Pulled myself together and went back up and this time went right, much easier that way and I thought I was wimping out, but I guess that is the way the route goes! Moral of the story is: good to read the descriptions on here first, and of course I shouldn't have tried it on marginal gear. I'll be back.