Starts in the obvious dihedral for 15ft. to a ledge, then up easy an unprotected wide crack for 5ft. Head left on horizontal crack to find a thin crack up the left side of the face for 25-30ft. The wide section has some loose rock, but easily avoided by climbing on big holds outside of the crack. The thin crack (crux) through the face is sequency, sustained, and steep.
The bottom corner is two inches. The wide section has a spot at the bottom for a #3.5 Camalot in good rock. The wide crack is unprotected and created by a large detatched block, be careful! The first good gear after this is small TCUs to 1 inch in the horizontal crack. The main crack takes small units and brass. It is very well-protected. Built gear anchor on top and descended on Tool King chains.
We were not sure whether these two cracks have been done. We talked to Dan Hare and he acknowledged climbing the right crack, but didn't know of anyone getting on the left crack. After attempting it and cleaning off loose rock in and around the crack, along with the difficult sequency moves, it had the signs of an unclimbed route. The crack on the right contains some sweet wide groveling to hands.
The Bihedral
RSS Feed
