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Wonky 

Wonky 

5.10+

   

FA: Greg Hand & Kent Lugbil 11/05/2007
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.11- [details]
Length: 60 feet
Views: 142 page views

Submitted By: Greg Hand on Nov 5, 2007


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Peter Dillon trying to decipher the crux moves on ...


Description 

It is like a wonk, only harder.
Start at the 2nd pitch of Like a Wonk.
Follow it until the first bolt is reached, then traverse right to the arete (crux) clipping 2 bolts. Continue to the anchors of Like a Wonk.


Location 

Variation of the 2nd pitch of Like a Wonk.


Protection 

0.75 Camalot, green Alien, 4 bolts.



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By Ron Olsen
Administrator
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 10, 2007
rating: 5.11

This pitch seemed much harder than 5.10+; neither my partner nor I could do it, even after repeated tries. Crimpy handholds and poor footholds at the crux. Any beta, Greg? What were we missing to make it go at 5.10+? Or should this route be renamed Like a Sandbag?

By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Nov 10, 2007

Ron,
It did seem hard, but I never know how to rate things.
After clipping the big (1/2")bolt, you can reach (blindly) around the right arete for a crimp. Then get the left on a crimp. Then move the feet and reach the right hand to the top of the flake. Then match the left just below it and reach right into the corner, then right up to a good horizontal. Your body gets around the right side of the arete, but you are not that far from the bolt.